DOD pedal restoration

[tootsMcgee]

I snagged a few DOD pedals recently (flanger, classic tube, and delay). The latter two were sold as parts but I've managed to fix them; one had a footswitch needing cleaning and the other had a wire come off the output jack. This is the worst hookup wire I've ever seen in anything. Some of them are hanging on for dear life by a single strand.

The pedals work great. The flanger worked out of the box. I've unexpectedly bonded with the sound from the classic tube pedal. And the delay just needs a tiny bit of adjustment on the delay time.

Repair time!

The foam around the PCB is missing from one of them. What should I replace it with? It looks like it cushions the board from shock because otherwise there are some tall components that will hit the bottom panel.

One of the pedals has a very aftermarket LED and bezel installed. Is there a replacement bezel that is known to fit these pedals?

The battery doors are missing (of course). How do you guys deal with that?

And last, the enclosures themselves are worn and some spots have the start of rust forming. How can I stop it from spreading? Making it factory-original is a non-issue.

These are cool pedals. Now I just need to figure out how to fit them on the board. Please don't tell me to buy more DOD pedals to scavenge for parts because I'll probably try to fix them too. 

[amptramp]

1. You should consider most types of foam as regular replacement items as they don't seem to hold up for long.  Just make sure what you use is non-conductive.  I often add duct tape or gorilla tap to the bottoms so nothing can make contact.

2. Nothing wrong with aftermarket but finding the original style of bezel is probably not the best use of your time unless you intend to sell the pedal.  There are many styles of bezel.  On my first build, I used an old Minelco LED with integral bezel.  Not the best choice as it is retained by a lip on the outside and a screw in the back, so you have to unsolder it to disassemble it.  One with a nut and washer on the front face makes it a lot easier because you can pull it out from behind the enclosure.

3. I have some small cabinetmaker's brass hinges in a 1" size from Home Depot and you can get magnets and pieces of iron for latches, so you have a choice of metal, wood or plastic for the lid itself.  I have two cutting boards and one very thin serving board that I can use to cut plastic from when I need it.  You may have to paint them if your enclosure is not white.

4. Rust tends to spread, so sand it off.  You can protect the surfaces with anything from wax to WD-40 under jacks and controls or paint where you are not making a conductive contact.

[ElectricDruid]

Aren't the 3D printing websites filled with files for replacement battery doors by now?!? 

That's probably the first thing I'd do if I had one of those machines. I don't, but a friend does, and occasionally I've nagged him to print me something I couldn't work out how to make or get any other way.

[Baran Ismen]

Aren't the 3D printing websites filled with files for replacement battery doors by now?!? 

That's probably the first thing I'd do if I had one of those machines. I don't, but a friend does, and occasionally I've nagged him to print me something I couldn't work out how to make or get any other way.

There you go  

[Box_Stuffer]

I got an old USA made DFX9 digital delay that I got at a pawn shop. It could use a new footswitch and the looping mode does not work. I haven't tried to fix it yet, but I need to. It is a really good sounding delay when it works.