A little help with Keeley Katana Boost

[whomeno]

put together a Keeley Katana Boost. from: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/02/keeley-katana-boost-layout-rev-2.html


















I can get Q2 to bais at 9 volt but Q1 will not changed d1 and trimer 1 same thing
no out put at all.

voltages are

9v at jack

7660s
1  110.54
2  5.78
3  0
4  .11
5  .31
6  5.08
7  4.77
8  10.56

Q1
D  20.6
S  2.75
G  0

Q2
D  9.39
S  1.39
G  0

D1
cat  16.17
non cat  10.58

D2

Non cat  16.17
cat  20.9

[Slowpoke101]

What type of JFETs did you use and did you check their pinouts (which leg is which)?
Just to check something, swap the JFETS over with each other and see if the Q1 position now biases and that Q2 position doesn't.

[whomeno]

2n5458
Yes I tried that, same thing. not the jfet
yes pin out maches

[Slowpoke101]

So the Q1 position will not bias with a different JFET. OK, have you checked that the DPDT switch is wired correctly?
Also check for a solder or copper bridge shorting the track that Q1's Drain pin connects to across to the track next to it (the track(s) that the tiny link connects). Those tracks are your 20V rail (supplied via D2).

[whomeno]

no bridges, every thing is right

[Slowpoke101]

Set your multimeter to a very low resistance range. Short the two test probes together and see if the meter reads zero or close to it. It should. Disconnect power from the effect. Remove Q1. Set Q1's trimmer to mid range. Place one test probe into the Q1's Drain connection and touch the other test probe to the tiny link just above the Q1 position.
What does the meter show?

[whomeno]

no reading getting 1

[Slowpoke101]

The "1" reading is to be expected and is good. Now move the test probe from Q1 Drain and place it in Q1 Source. Touch the other test lead to the top end of the 680R resistor closest to Q1. The meter should show zero or close to it. If it doesn't, check for any bad solder joints or fractures in the copper tracks. The next test is to connect one test probe to ground (0V) and then touch the other test probe to the other end of the same 680R resistor. This too should show zero on the meter.

[whomeno]

the boost is working now. one of the sip pins was broke.

[Slowpoke101]

Good work. Very pleased that you found that.
My next suggestion was going to be that you just solder the JFETs directly to the board. Those types of sockets can be either good or very bad (will not hold a component leg properly). Larger diameter component legs do help but the quality of those sockets has declined over the past few years. I try not to use them if at all possible.
Have fun.

[whomeno]

never had a problem with them till now. and yes the trannys seem loose I might just solder them to the board on this one.