Help with Flintlok Flanger v1.3 :(

[ulysses]

hi everyone,

i built the flintlock flanger today but unfortunately it doesnt flange at all. just clean signal.

i bought parts from ebay so everything is under question

i have done a full IC voltage check and possibly found the problem. pin 1 of the 3007 reads 6.71v when socketed, and when i remove the 3007 the socket pin 1 reads 15.01v

so it's possible that ive got shitty 3007's, even though i bought a bunch from different sellers, they appear to be the same batch. they look authentic but who knows.

also a bit questionable is the gate voltage on the 2N5458. i also socketed the 2N5458 and if i pull it out the pedal still passed the clean signal.

if anyone has experience with this pedal (or with fake 3007's dropping voltage) i would appreciate you having a look at my substitutions and my IC values.

also pin 1 of the 1458 jumps between 2v and 13v. is it supposed to do this?

many thanks, ulysses

PART SUBSTITUTIONS
3 diodes 1N5817 —> 1N5819
1 transistor 2N5457 —> 2N5458

15V pad reads 14.45

All Pots and Trimpots at 50% for IC voltage readings

IC1: NJM4558L
1:6.80
2:6.80
3:6.25
4:0
5:8.44
6:8.54
7:8.52
8:13.57

IC2: NJM4558L
1:4.5
2:4.5
3:4.5
4:0
5:6.75
6:6.75
7:6.75
8:13.55

IC3: NJM4558L
1:6.80
2:6.72
3:6.72
4:0
5:6.75
6:6.83
7:6.85
8:13.85

IC8: NJM4558L
1:6.55
2:3.75
3:3.75
4:0
5:8.45
6:8.44
7:8.3~9.2
8:13.86

IC12: NJM4558L
1:6.75
2:6.75
3:6.75
4:0
5:6.73
6:6.75
7:6.75
8:13.5

IC13: NJM4558L
1:5.3
2:6.75
3:6.75
4:0
5:6.69
6:6.75
7:6.75
8:13.5

IC4: LM1458N
1:2.12//13.02 (jumps between these two values — time between change 3 seconds)
2:7.6
3:3.6~11.5
4:0
5:6.75
6:6.75
7:3.6~11.5
8:14

IC5: CD4007UBE
1:0.15
2:0.18
3:0
4:0.20
5:0.12
6:0
7:0.23
8:0.27
9:0.01
10:8.3~9.3
11:8.6
12:0.05
13:14.27
14:14.25

IC6: CD4047BE
1:14.2
2:0.05
3:8.6
4:14.25
5:14.25
6:14.25
7:0
8:0
9:0
10:7.12
11:7.13
12:0
13:14.19
14:14.25

IC9: CD4049UBE
1: 14.26
2:7.13
3:7.14
4:7.13
5:7.13
6:7.12
7:7.12
8:0
9:7.12
10:6.71
11:7.11
12:6.69
13:0
14:7.12
15:7.14
16:0

IC10: MN3007
1:6.71 ********** (socket reads 15v when IC removed)
2:7.13
3:8.44
4:1.2
5:0
6:6.7
7:0.66
8:0.68

IC11: LT1054CP
1:1.39
2:4.6
3:0
4:0.02
5:0
6:2.5
7:1.4
8:8.92

Q1: 2N5458
G:4.2 *********** (other people had readings around the same as their S and D)
S:6.75
D:6.75

[ulysses]

one of the 6 3007's i bought has a pin 1 voltage of 13.5v, and the 15v pad now reads 15.01v

still no flange signal at all

if i remove the 1458, the transistor and the 3007 it still passed dry audio

any ideas?? 

[PRR]

Any schematic?

[ulysses]

thx PRR

http://lectric-fx.com/product/flintlock-flanger/
http://lectric-fx.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/FlintlockFlangerV1.2.pdf

[ulysses]

now i have researched more on sourcing the mn3007 chips im confident i have just bought fakes from china.

what absolute desperate people must do these things to make another persons life miserable for a couple of bucks? sad that the world turns out people like this.

no i won't be asking for a refund -- instead i will use my option to warn others that you rip people off. sad.

i think i'll just go for the 3207 chip. are people faking these chips too?

cheers

[Aph]

I'm sure.
Buy a coolaudio chip from Small Bear Electronics or some other reputable merchant.

[pinkjimiphoton]

i have one of these sitting around for a year now doing pretty much the same thing. passes signal, no flanging. i tried several mn3007's including some from working pedals, no dice. about gave up on it. i was having a bitch of a time trying to trace the circuit, its hard for me to see with the black on black everything. glaucoma sux.

[Scruffie]

Sorry, I try and keep on top of debugs for this but must have just missed this thread.

It certainly is a strong possibility you got a fake MN3007, even a few well known suppliers have started shipping them, so Small Bear is definitely the place to go for a real one.

As for 3207, while you'll get fake 'MN' chips I don't think anyone is bothering to fake the Cool Audio v3207 seeing as it's cheap and still in production.

And yes, the 1458 is the LFO so pin 1 jumping around is quite normal.

What happens to the FET Gate voltage when you remove the FET out of interest? It does seem slightly low.

I'm slightly concerned why your 4049 has a slightly lower voltage on pins 10 & 12 than the other pins, but that could also be the '3007' pulling it down.

i have one of these sitting around for a year now doing pretty much the same thing. passes signal, no flanging. i tried several mn3007's including some from working pedals, no dice. about gave up on it. i was having a bitch of a time trying to trace the circuit, its hard for me to see with the black on black everything. glaucoma sux.

I wondered if you ever got that running, if you wanna take another crack at it you can PM me.

[pinkjimiphoton]

thanks scruffie
i will mos def take you up on it if i ever get around to getting back to my bench. it tends to get buried over the summer with "winter projects" and i have a crazy amount of cleaning to do... and a univibe i gotta get going there, too. never ends