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DIY PCB Eyelet?

Started by turdadactyl, December 07, 2018, 09:51:18 AM

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turdadactyl

I have a Big Muff with a missing pad on the PCB.  It seems silly to have to order an eyelet and wait for it to get here before fixing this thing.  Any ideas on how I can fix it in another way?  Thanks, as usual.

turdadactyl

One thought I had was to pull a pad off a vero board.  I actually managed to get a single copper ring off intact.  Of course, now I'm not sure how I can make it stick and reliably conduct.

thermionix

Just use component lead, bend it to the next connection and solder.

turdadactyl

Quote from: thermionix on December 07, 2018, 10:35:46 AM
Just use component lead, bend it to the next connection and solder.

How such a simple, yet effective solution escaped me is mind boggling.  :icon_eek:

Thanks

anotherjim

That's what I'd do -  if it wasn't all that critical.
The proper thing is a set of repair eyelets to hand. That's what a "professional" pcb rework would use.
http://www.soldertools.net/pcb-eyelet-eylt026040093-100/
...but how long would it take to work through a 100pack of the little buggers?


italianguy63

A couple other things you can do is:

With an exacto knife.. carefully scrape the enamel insulating mask off the very nearby trace so the copper shows.   Bend the end of the lead over like above, and solder it to the trace.

They also make some copper trace paste that is in a pen/liquid form.. it allows you to redraw traces that have breaks in them...

MC
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

amptramp

There used to be an eyelet type of board construction that was popular for RF filters and other high-frequency uses.  You would drill a hole then use a hand tool that was piloted in the hole and cut a ring out of the copper-clad board.  Then you loaded in an eyelet and used a press with a die that would deform the eyelet to get a grip on the board.  The ring was wider than the eyelet and kept the ground plane separated from the eyelet.  Most of the board was left as copper ground plane, so this was ideal for RF use.  This is not the same as using eyelets to form a conductive through hole for establishing conduction between two sides of a double-sided board.

You can get eyelets here:

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/eyelets-rivets/40291

and here:

https://www.mouser.ca/Electromechanical/Hardware/Circuit-Board-Hardware-PCB/_/N-5g2e?P=1z0z0ov

davent

I've used a couple sizes from Mouser for pcb's so i could solder from the top side after mounting the boards.





dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

PRR

> how long would it take to work through a 100pack of the little buggers?

I just hit the end of the *first* spool in my Awl For All, stitching the dog's tags, and had to insert the spare spool which comes with it.

I think I bought it in 1980. So I'll need a re-fill in 2056.

BTW: highly recommended for leather and canvas stitching.
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