Lettering?

[bholder]

What's a good source for easy custom lettering for labeling stomp box controls?  My Google-fu is weak today (having no luck). 

[Mark Hammer]

For one-offs, or for many pedals?

Apparently, some of the small handheld and desktop labelling machines that print to rolls of label "tape" can use transparent tape, and my son tells me some print in font sizes small enough to be serviceable as legending for pedals.

One would need to apply clear lacquer over the labels to protect the print.  Be careful about choosing lacquer since some can dissolve the print.

[bholder]

I'm looking for one-offs for small projects, but the other links would be interesting reading for someone, I'm sure.   

[willienillie]

Apparently, some of the small handheld and desktop labelling machines that print to rolls of label "tape" can use transparent tape, and my son tells me some print in font sizes small enough to be serviceable as legending for pedals.

Yes, I have a Brother P-Touch that does this, you can get white on clear, black on clear, blue on red, etc.  The tape is a little thick and will always look like a sticker, probably even if you clear coat over it, which I haven't tried.  Not a very professional or commercial look, but not everyone here is concerned about that.  I think I paid about $3 at a Goodwill store for the P-Touch, the tapes were more, but you can get generic tape on Ebay much cheaper than the official stuff.  One cool thing is that you can use several different tape widths in the same machine.

[bholder]

I swear I saw some sort of (maybe vinyl) transfer lettering stuff somewhere on one of these forums, but it was years and years ago.  Kind of like a custom waterslide headstock decal, but not waterslide, more like "peel'n'press" transfer.  Does that ring any bells for anyone?  (Still would want to clearcoat on top to keep them in place.) 

[bholder]

Response from another forum:

Transparent labels for printers. They come in both ink-jet and laser varieties. Print, stick on the box, and for better longevity apply a couple of coats of laquer.

That's it!  I knew it!  Now to retry my googling... 

[willienillie]

Yeah there are different options.  Printed waterslide decals give you the full range of graphics and lettering possibilities, but keep in mind that most printers don't print in white, and it's often best to apply the decal over white paint.

I swear I saw some sort of (maybe vinyl) transfer lettering stuff somewhere on one of these forums, but it was years and years ago.  Kind of like a custom waterslide headstock decal, but not waterslide, more like "peel'n'press" transfer.  Does that ring any bells for anyone?  (Still would want to clearcoat on top to keep them in place.) 

Dry transfer lettering is sometimes called Letraset, a brand name.  Can be used, but a PITA IMO, and you're right about the clearcoating, they're very easy to rub off.

There's a thread in the Pictures section where people post pictures of etched enclosures, yet another option.

[Mark Hammer]

Personally, I use rub-on lettering that I managed to acquire a stash of about 20 years back.  You can still find some at hobby stores that provide supplies for folks who want to make their model trains and airplanes look authentic.  It can be tricky to line things up, and there's never enough of certain letters (Z and V come to mind), but the letters don't stick out as much as labels do.

[willienillie]

I've never done full-on "3D" etching, but you can use FeCl to darken the bare diecast enclosure metal without really eating into it.  On one pedal I put some dry transfer lettering on, rubbed FeCl around it with a Q-tip, then removed the dry transfer letters, for a 2D kind of reverse etch thing.  Looks pretty cool.  But still I wouldn't want to do that often, dry transfer letters are tricky to apply fully, especially if the surface isn't perfectly smooth, and without accidentally removing parts of the letter next to the one you're applying.

[Rixen]

https://www.papilio.com/ produce a wide range of specialty inkjet and laser media, including printable vinyl, printable rub-on, waterslide and tatoo paper. I use their products for signage, parts labelling and front panel decals. I haven't tried the rub-on as it requires an adhesive they can't ship to NZ.

[jfrabat]

Yeah there are different options.  Printed waterslide decals give you the full range of graphics and lettering possibilities, but keep in mind that most printers don't print in white, and it's often best to apply the decal over white paint.

That is what I do.  I just keep my pedal colors relatively light and my graphics in pure black.



That is an old picture (my EA Tremolo did not yet get graphics), but you get the idea...  now you not only get full graphics, but all the fonts in the world are available!  I have a couple with darker colors (Green Russian is a dark green, and Slow Loris is a darker red) and it still works.  But you need to choose your pedal colors.  And it only works in flat surfaces (I have a multi effect box that is texture, and that one is without any graphics and letters as a result).

[antonis]

Is your compressor's bench vice portable, Felipe..?? 

[vigilante397]

I say this every time a thread like this pops up:

Lasers

[deadastronaut]

sharpie   

[willienillie]

Hell most of mine are just blank.  I built the damn thing, I know what the knobs do, yes?  I do usually buy painted boxes though.  I can tell my Dyna Comp from my Dist+ because one's red and one's yellow, otherwise they're the same.

[jfrabat]

Is your compressor's bench vice portable, Felipe..?? 

Sorry, no.  It is permanently attached to my case...  LOL!

[rockola]

sharpie   

Sho 'nuff

[davent]

Did anyone mentioned metal letter punches/stamps. I've also used these with paint to stamp enclosures.

Cut stencils, lettered with homemade pens to hold ink/paint, drafting pens...




dave

[tubegeek]

Paint pens come in LOTS of colors.