diy steel enclosure

[taviii]

hi! new to the forum
im just starting my 2nd build, a simple overdrive/boost. this time i want to make my own enclosure and i have lots of steel square and rectangular tubes offcuts from my job as a welder, so my question is can i use straight metal for the enclosure without finishing it? to have a rustic finish. i mean,its ok for the components to be directly in contact with the steel enclosure?

[anotherjim]

Yes, you can use raw steel. Don't rely on it for ground connections because of future corrosion issues. Pick one place to make a good clean screening ground connection with the circuit. There is somewhere somebody who deliberately makes their steel scorched/corroded for a post-apocalyptic look, but you can still have proper paint finishes too.

[jimbeaux]

On the geofex website - R.G. has several articles about using inexpensive steel framing for effects enclosures.

On the main website - do a word search for "steel".

*edited - I re-read your post and realized you're talking about structural (or mechanical) steel tubing - if it's thin wall mechanical (1/8" thick) - seems like it would work fine for mounting controls, PCB, ....

[duck_arse]

a new user! welcome to the forum.

at the bare minimum, I'd clean of rust and primer any steel panel that was having parts mounted to, at the very very least around any drill holes or cuts, on the component side. topside - go for your life.

we want to see photos of your intents, and certainly of the finished results.

[taviii]

*edited - I re-read your post and realized you're talking about structural (or mechanical) steel tubing - if it's thin wall mechanical (1/8" thick) - seems like it would work fine for mounting controls, PCB, ....

Yes im talking about structural steel tubing. Wall thickness 1.6mm (1/16).

a new user! welcome to the forum.

at the bare minimum, I'd clean of rust and primer any steel panel that was having parts mounted to, at the very very least around any drill holes or cuts, on the component side. topside - go for your life.

we want to see photos of your intents, and certainly of the finished results.

Yes i will definitely protect the insides with some primer or clearcoat, im waiting for the components to arrive so i will make an update soon.

[taviii]

Yes, you can use raw steel. Don't rely on it for ground connections because of future corrosion issues. Pick one place to make a good clean screening ground connection with the circuit.

Hi, my plan was to wirebrush the interior of the enclosure, then make the grounding and give it some kind of clearcoat for protection. Will this work?

[amptramp]

Many of my antique radios have steel cabinets and a long punched and raised tang of metal for grounding.  It is possible to use one point for a ground connection but you will have to use an eavestroughing iron to get it hot enough for solder to take, and that is after sanding or filing it to a bright finish.  I have one that is 100 watts but with a 1/4 inch tip and a lot of thermal mass that can solder ground braid (made of solder wick) to a steel partition in about five seconds.

[rutabaga bob]

Welcome, taviii!  I use a lot of steel electrical junction boxes, myself.  Cheap and available.

[davent]

For grounding to the chassis i'd just attach one of these with a lock nut and screw/bolt.



dave

[taviii]

For grounding to the chassis i'd just attach one of these with a lock nut and screw/bolt.




dave

Thats a great idea, i will surelly do it that way.

Many thanks to all i will post some photos as i build the pedal

[anotherjim]

If it's thick enough, you can tap a thread in a hole (M3 if metrically minded). That can make a more airtight fixing for the ground -  still use a lug and star washer too as Davent showed.

[willienillie]

You can solder to steel.  Just sayin'.

[FiveseveN]

The OP is a welder. Now I'm no Abom79 but I'm pretty sure that means he's familiar with the whole attaching a piece of metal to another concept.

i mean,its ok for the components to be directly in contact with the steel enclosure?

Components have conductive bits (the pins) and a generally non-conductive body. I don't think this is what you're asking but just to be perfectly clear, the pins and PCB traces and any exposed wire should not be in contact with a conductive enclosure, that would short out everything. But the rest is fine.

[taviii]

Little update, parts arrived and for some kind of warm up i put together a quick fuzz on a thinner can.
I really like the outcome, the only thing i dont like is sustain when i bend a note. The note just loose volume to quickly. Is this normal for a fuzz pedal like this?

[Marcos - Munky]

For your first question (if you can use a steel enclosure), then yes. Just be sure it's hard enough to handle the strength of your foot stepping on the switch. I have a good number of sardine can pedals, and to my stepping strength they can handle it pretty well.

For your 2nd question (on the fuzz note decay), we have to know which one you built.

[taviii]

For your 2nd question (on the fuzz note decay), we have to know which one you built.

This is the fuzz i built. Im ussing 1n914 diode instead of bat41

[Marcos - Munky]

Ah the bazz fuss. Classic circuit, very simple and good sounding. And very limited. It's working as it should be, the note decay is normal for this circuit.

This doesn't apply for other circuits. You should expect a better response from other fuzzes.

[taviii]

Ah the bazz fuss. Classic circuit, very simple and good sounding. And very limited. It's working as it should be, the note decay is normal for this circuit.

This doesn't apply for other circuits. You should expect a better response from other fuzzes.

For the simplicity is awesome, its a very good starting point. Guess ill have to check some other fuzzes schematics.

[duck_arse]

.... post deleted .... ?