Bad Breadboards?

[audiobalm]

Hey folks!

I've built up my fuzz face project onto a breadboard in order to tweak before I commit it to vero board and enclosure, and what is proving to be frustrating is the amount of crackle and sometimes complete loss of signal (from my jumper wires specifically) on my board. I've tried a few variations and it's fairly consistent but at inconsistent spots. The spots test ok for continuity but for some reason have a hard time keeping the audio running through them reliably.

Is this usually a sign of a poor breadbord? Poor positioning of the elements in the circuit? Is it unavoidable? I'd be interested in your thoughts before I go spend a bunch of money on random things that might help.

Thanks!

The breadboard I purchased is the following:

ELEGOO 3pcs MB-102 Breadboard 830 Point Solderless Prototype PCB Board Kit for Arduino Proto Shield Distribution Connecting Blocks https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M0QJTI5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_M2cdGb0SV4GJY

[idy]

Sometimes it's the gauge of component lead wires and jumpers. Not tight, not right. And I probably mess mine up trying to squeeze pcb lead pots in.

[anotherjim]

They don't tolerate a few things...
Thick leads. Typical carbon comp resistor leads can be a stretch. Pots with flat legs should be twisted 90deg.
Thick lead next to a thin lead. The thick one removes the tension from the thin one.
Parts that come on bandolier rolls can have gum residue on the leads that interferes with contact and build up over time.

Cheap construction. Because you can't see what you're getting. They might be tinned steel. Nickle plated phosphor-bronze would be better. I've not seen many breadboard listings that quote the contact type!

Look for the  Circuit Specialists WB-106+J breadboard entry in this roundup...
https://elekonika.com/best-breadboard/
It's the only one the writer could say what the contact material was!
Although even the best material can be rubbish if it's too thin or poorly manufactured.

[iainpunk]

my guess is bad jumper wires.

depending on the source, they can be really low quality, and break internally.
that would explain the bad behavior independent of the location on the breadboard!

cheers, Iain

[garcho]

http://www.busboard.com

I've used ^ their products many times without disappointment. It's not a panacea for all breadboard issues, such as what Jim and Iain have pointed out, for instance. But I have noticed a difference between "name brand" breadboards vs the cheapest ones I could find. They make some useful protoboards as well, great for one-offs (also Electrocookie makes awesome protoboards, they're with actual copper plated through holes, not just surface eyelets, I use them for all my one-offs).

If I had a dollar for every time a jumper wire was to blame for wasting time chasing gremlins...

I use this, without many problems:


whereas before I used this type, with many problems:

[deadastronaut]

this guy nails it with poor quality breadboards..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VerbEZtACwQ&t=214s

[Fancy Lime]

I use doorbell wire from the hardware store for jumpers as well as for pedal wiring. It's solid core copper wire with the right diameter for breadboarding, comes in all colors of the rainbow and costs a few bucks for 50m.

Andy