question regarding foot switches

[scstowaway]

i intend to make myself a pedal to essentially engage or bypass 3 separate signals, with an led on each signal (or channel.)  I split my guitar signal into 3, using various pedals, one gets detuned and goes through a bass rig, the other 2 through separate signal chains and then to 2 different amps.  I want this new pedal I'm making to be the last stop before heading to the amps.  This way I can mute a desired signal(s) at will.  and have lit led when active.  so 3 switches, 3 leds.  can I use dpdt switches?  Some of my pedals have the "soft touch" switches, they feel momentary but they are on/off without a click, can i use those?  not a must but would prefer.  if so, what are they called?  Let me know if I've left out any vital info.  thanks in advance!!

[idy]

Yes, you can do that. Three inputs from the separated chains, three footswitches that either send the signal along or ground the output (grounding the input of the amps) three LEDs.

Some people would want something higher tech, the sky is the limit. You might find this quiet enough. Some one else might need something more. I would try the simple way first, always possible to add more later. You may want to read about what can go noisy with mechanical switching....

http://www.muzique.com/lab/pop.htm
https://www.mrblackpedals.com/blogs/straight-jive/6629778-what-really-causes-switch-pop

Yes, 2pdt would be fine. They are called "latching" and "soft click." Probably other things too.

Some of your pedals with soft or "feather" touch switches may be momentary switches operating a latching relay or FET bypass...

[scstowaway]

Yes, I was reading about the whole relay thing, sounds a bit more involved than I want to get on this one.  Thanks for the confirmation!  One last thing, each led needs a resistor, correct?  size/type recommendation?  Ill be powering it with the same power source that's powering the rest of my pedals, no battery.

[idy]

9v and the old diffused LEDs standard value was 4.7k. With modern ultra bright 10k is fine. Some even use higher. Easy to experiment, but use 4.7 as a minimum to avoid destroying your LEDs.
The absolute minimum for highest brightness without burn out...there is a calculator somewhere...

https://ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator

but you need the spec sheets. When I first started fiddling with these things I found the minimum was under 1k. Now I find even 10k is a bit dazzling in dark environments.

[scstowaway]

Very cool, thanks for the input!  much appreciated!

[scstowaway]

One more thing, I think I have a handle on wiring the three individual channels as far as the 1/4" jacks, leds and switches, but I'm unsure about the power.  would I run three separate leads from the power jack or is there a way to daisy chain, which i guess would only work if there are pins in the dpdt switch that are always on regardless of the switch position.  I hope that makes some kind of sense

[scstowaway]

anyone?

[bluebunny]

The electrons won't care (or know) the route they took from your power jack.  Do whatever is convenient for you.

[ElectricDruid]

9v and the old diffused LEDs standard value was 4.7k. With modern ultra bright 10k is fine. Some even use higher. Easy to experiment, but use 4.7 as a minimum to avoid destroying your LEDs.
The absolute minimum for highest brightness without burn out...there is a calculator somewhere...

https://ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator

but you need the spec sheets. When I first started fiddling with these things I found the minimum was under 1k. Now I find even 10k is a bit dazzling in dark environments.

The calculator is your friend, because the right resistor value *completely* depends on what type of LED you're using. Like IDY says, you need the spec sheet to find the required current and the forward voltage. Years ago when all LEDs were red and not that good, you had to get 25mA going through them to get much light at all. Now, there are "high efficiency" and "high brightness"types that are very bright with only a couple of mA. Forward voltages vary significantly too, from a couple of volts or so up to over 4V for some blue LEDs. Between one and the other, there's a lot of variation.
The calculator resistor value is usually a *minimum* value though - I often find modern LEDs much too bright with the stated current, so once you've got that value, you can increase to taste.

[bluebunny]

The calculator resistor value is usually a *minimum* value though

^ THIS!!  (Guess how I know...    )

[scstowaway]

great, that's exactly what i needed to know.  And lucky for me, my local electronics store has a handy little sheet right near all the leds.  I also double checked with an employee, so we'll see how that goes.  thanks a ton!!