Whiteface Rat footswitch replacement and LED mod? Pic attached.

[zjdrummond]

I have this wonderful Proco Reissue 85' Whiteface Rat. Her name is Stephanie, apparently. I've been kicking on it for years, and the footswitch is going out. I need to replace it, but I'd like to add a bypass LED indicator while I'm in there. How can I do this?

https://imgur.com/gallery/VLwE47v

[GGBB]

Welcome to the forum.

I'd highly recommend against irreversibly modding a Whiteface reissue -they command fairly high prices nowadays. Replace the faulty footswitch - sure, but drill a hole for an LED - not good. Buy a new or used You Dirty RAT or Turbo RAT - still USA made I believe - and convert it to original RAT specs. Or buy one of the many boutique RAT clones. Or build your own. Even the Made in China RAT2 can be converted and are dirt cheap (as RATs go).

[zjdrummond]

Welcome to the forum.

I'd highly recommend against irreversibly modding a Whiteface reissue -they command fairly high prices nowadays. Replace the faulty footswitch - sure, but drill a hole for an LED - not good. Buy a new or used You Dirty RAT or Turbo RAT - still USA made I believe - and convert it to original RAT specs. Or buy one of the many boutique RAT clones. Or build your own. Even the Made in China RAT2 can be converted and are dirt cheap (as RATs go).

I have been laughing pretty recently about that exact thing. It's funny to watch the prices go up on this pedal, but I'll never sell it. It's staying on my board for life. I'm a musician, and I need my gear to work 100% of the time. I'm also hella tired of not knowing if the Rat is on or not.

[PRR]

If you are actively employing Stephanie, I'd say it is valid to replace her switch and neatly add an LED. It is a "Period Correct" "Working Musician" mod.

Guys: can he get a 3P2T switch to fit that hole with an LED in the button? That avoids any new holes, though the light-up might suggest it is not as old as it looks (a re-re-re-issue?) an an inside look spills the beans: old guts with new mod.

EDIT  https://www.taydaelectronics.com/illuminated-push-botton-foot-3pdt-switch-pedal.html  ?
Tayda  3PDT | ON-ON | Latching | Solder Lugs | Long Lasting | High Quality  $3.49
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/files/wiring_diagram2_pin.pdf

[GGBB]

That's a Whiteface Reissue for sure (unless it's an original whiteface or blackface) judging from the PCB layout. They were a limited run from around 2010.

I'm not 100% sure about the hole diameter, but I'm reasonably certain. It's pretty standard and would match up with a typical 3PDT 15/32 diameter bushing. I just checked my 1995 Vintage RAT reissue and 1990 RAT2 (which happened to be right behind me) and they are both 15/32 DPDT switches.

I think those stomp switches with the built in LED are bigger by a fair bit - 11/16 according to https://guitarpedalparts.com/products/3pdt-foot-switch-with-led-ring-red?variant=18956281544804.

If it were me I'd try to use a few ultra brights positioned against the sides pointing up through the gap. There's usually several thousandths of an inch of space. LEDS can be very bright these days.

Wiring is simple - top left or top right:

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/59/60/9e/59609ed5aa477cfa4eec1a8ba70d6735.jpg

The center pole is where the LED action is - the outside poles are what your current DPDT switch does.

EDIT: Here's a better diagram for the switch wiring to match the original RAT wiring:

[zjdrummond]

That's a Whiteface Reissue for sure (unless it's an original whiteface or blackface) judging from the PCB layout. They were a limited run from around 2010.

I bought it New from Sweetwater. It's a reissue. I didn't know there were footswitches with led rings in them now. Pretty neat!

[bluebunny]

Guys: can he get a 3P2T switch to fit that hole with an LED in the button? That avoids any new holes, though the light-up might suggest it is not as old as it looks (a re-re-re-issue?) an an inside look spills the beans: old guts with new mod.

Those illuminated switches are indeed much bigger than the regular 12mm (21mm?).  I had to buy a bigger step bit when I used one.

[zjdrummond]

I'm pretty sure this case is steel. Will normal drill bits be okay for this, or do I need some hard stuff?

[bluebunny]

"Normal" (HSS) bits are OK for steel.  But compared to our usual die-cast aluminium (which is like butter), the technique is somewhat more exacting.  I'm not one to give you any pointers, since the few times I've drilled steel I've kinda blagged it (and the results have been less than stellar).  Someone with bona fide knowledge is sure to stop by shortly.

[ToneRangerAudio]

That's a Whiteface Reissue for sure (unless it's an original whiteface or blackface) judging from the PCB layout. They were a limited run from around 2010.

I'm not 100% sure about the hole diameter, but I'm reasonably certain. It's pretty standard and would match up with a typical 3PDT 15/32 diameter bushing. I just checked my 1995 Vintage RAT reissue and 1990 RAT2 (which happened to be right behind me) and they are both 15/32 DPDT switches.

I think those stomp switches with the built in LED are bigger by a fair bit - 11/16 according to https://guitarpedalparts.com/products/3pdt-foot-switch-with-led-ring-red?variant=18956281544804.

If it were me I'd try to use a few ultra brights positioned against the sides pointing up through the gap. There's usually several thousandths of an inch of space. LEDS can be very bright these days.

Wiring is simple - top left or top right:

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/59/60/9e/59609ed5aa477cfa4eec1a8ba70d6735.jpg

The center pole is where the LED action is - the outside poles are what your current DPDT switch does.

EDIT: Here's a better diagram for the switch wiring to match the original RAT wiring:

Bringing this thread back! Just bought a Whiteface Reissue as well and for the amount of work I'm doing these days I need to add an LED.

In the diagram, is somebody able to tell me what wires are what color in the picture of the OP? I have all of the materials, I just need to figure out what wires are what inside the pedal. There are two wires coming straight out the PCB as well. Anyone know what those are?

Thanks!