DC power jack style

[mozz]

After i buy the boards i notice the power jack has solder pins instead of solder lugs. I think it was a footprint problem as the guys pictures show the lugs. So my lugs are on the way, maybe i can clip them or just use a rear power jack and hardwire it. Even the front and back pin do not line up. And the stomp switch needs pins as the lug type do not fit. I'm not going to mention you have to find the correct placement for the in and out jacks and don't solder them until you place the board on top of them. I usually use switchcraft hardwired, not familiar with the fit exact 1590b width. Oh, well, I'll look more closely next time or request a BOM.

[Rob Strand]

You can get Jacks with small pins but I'm not sure if the hole positions match.

To me it looks like your PCB has been manufactured with "holes" but what should have been done is the board should have been manufactured with slots.   I always made a habit of asking PCB manufacturers how they want information regarding slots conveyed to them.   Back in the days when slots were an issue for some manufacturers, on occasion I used standard round PCB holes but the (large) holes sizes were carefully chose so the wide flat pins/lugs would fit snuggly into the holes so they locate correctly.

[mozz]

 I may be able to drill them out, or clip half of the lug, waiting for parts. The only stomp i can find with 9 round pins is now called mini, i don't know if i will have height problems. I could clip the stomps too i guess but that would shift the switch left or right. Problem i have with this guys boards also is when using resistors, i really have to bend the leads real close to the body, unless i use these really small ones. Diodes i have cracked a few so i now partially stand them up. Winter projects.

[Rob Strand]

When I've mounted lug switches to home-made PCBs with drilled holes I soldered solid wires through the lugs then threaded them through the PCB.  It's wise to loop with wires through the lugs and make them mechanically rigid.  Also, when I solder the wire to the lugs I use a bit of extra solder.   The idea is you don't want the solder on the lugs to melt when you solder the wires to the PCB.   This method is fine for one-off DIY stuff.

In your case the extra height on the switch might be an issue.   In theory you could raise all mechanical parts from the PCB.   A total pain in the butt.   Putting solid wires on the DC jack isn't going to be very strong either.    It could turn out to be a recovery operation which goes from bad to worse.     If you can get parts that fit it would save a lot of head-aches.   What parts does the guy who sells the boards use?  Has he ever built one?

[mozz]

 I don't know if he builds them. His picture shows the oval lugs yet the boards i got have the pin holes. I found 50 of the stomp switches with pins. More than i want to spend but i have 50 boards. Seems all prices have gone up. Power jack is on the way so i will figure that out. I think there is enough pad that i can drill next to the hole making a figure 8 and the lug will fit in there.

[ElectricDruid]

The resistors comment makes me think the board probably expects you to use 1/8W resistors (or something that size) and you're using 1/4W (or something that size). 1/4W will fit in holes at 0.3" centres, but as you say you have to bend the legs too tight to the body and it risks cracking the caps off the end of the resistor. 0.4" is much better. For 1/8W, 0.3" is fine.

[Rob Strand]

Hmmm,  for 50 boards you don't won't to be doing DIY'er type fixes.

It would be good if you could get some samples or at least mechanical drawings so you see it it will fit.   The height of those lugged switches might not match up with the enclosure.    If the switch mounting face is too low you can pad-out the height with washers but if it's too high the other jacks won't line up.

I think there is enough pad that i can drill next to the hole making a figure 8 and the lug will fit in there.

I suppose if you try it out on one unit you can see if it works and judge how keen you are about modding the 50.

[mozz]

The resistors comment makes me think the board probably expects you to use 1/8W resistors (or something that size) and you're using 1/4W (or something that size). 1/4W will fit in holes at 0.3" centres, but as you say you have to bend the legs too tight to the body and it risks cracking the caps off the end of the resistor. 0.4" is much better. For 1/8W, 0.3" is fine.

Yeah i am old school carbon comp with the resistors. I know what a old 1/2w, 1/4w looks like. I have a few cabinets full of the new 1/4w size in about every value they make. Some i can bend and they fit in, others i bend and i either have to force the resistors down or pull the leads with needle nose to get them to sit flat. I think different brands/ carbon film/metal film, 1%, 5% have different size tolerances. From what i am reading 1/4w are 6.5mm plus/minus .5mm and another site lists 6.3mm plus/minus .3mm.

I have gerbers for some of the boards i buy so i should get in there and make some changes, diodes and caps also. I have a habit of buying 50 boards and will build 10, then sell a few, then move on to the next adventure.