should i be using ge diodes in a pulse shaper? ( honeydripper content)

Started by pinkjimiphoton, November 29, 2021, 06:05:12 PM

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pinkjimiphoton

Hey guys
Messing with a honeydripper from madbean
Brian sent me years ago.. tweaking it in to my
Liking.
So far...damn, first post from my phone, it keeps
Capitalizing everything lol...
I made the clipper asym, 4148 and bat41 on one side,
Two 1n60 in series on the other. Fuzz tone quality way better.
Made the envelope extraction 1n60's too.s
Adding a stripe to ground 914 off d16's anode to ground
Made a big diff in the envelope tracking and voltage as  reported
By Helmut on the aquataur site of days of yore.
Still not quite like the original one i built, that would quack if
You looked at it funny.
Eliminated c2. Dont need it.
R5 i made a 500k trim. Just set it to unity gain.
R21 i made a 10k trim. Again, tweak til sounds best.
The rest, so far, is stock cct.
I will up pix when i get up to my puter

My question, is should i make the pulse shaper parts of the envelope follower
That drives the formant filters ge instead of si diodes?
Would it make the unit more sensitive?
I suspect that is what i did in the original one in
The spt video, but cant remember.
Thanks fam
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"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

pinkjimiphoton

graphic shit that may matter  ::)




















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"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

Rob Strand

QuoteMy question, is should i make the pulse shaper parts of the envelope follower
That drives the formant filters ge instead of si diodes?
Would it make the unit more sensitive?
It certainly wouldn't hurt to try it.  Maybe try Schottkys.

Rectifiers are fussy things with small signals.   The opamp speed and offset voltages can also have an effect.

If you have a sine generator and an oscilloscope you can usually see what stages are pooping out when you dial the input level down.
Send:     . .- .-. - .... / - --- / --. --- .-. -
According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.

pinkjimiphoton

does it matter which kinda schotkes? i've got all kinds of voltages, but i dunno if they're all schotkes. i DO have bat 41, and 1n60 schotkes, or 1n60 ge in stock, maybe a couple of 1n34's.

i just hate to change it out if its not gonna make much impact, i'll be soldering in parts from the top of the board most likely  if i change it. but it seems like something i would have done all them years ago.
the original honeydripper had some serious quack!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oNUhZwxeEU <for the future, when the video inevitably disappears>

screw it... in for a dollar... i'm on it. gonna try the ge 1n60's. betting its gonna quack like a duck, and answer the burning question of what the hell i did all them years ago.

thanks bro!

  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

pinkjimiphoton

ge diodes for sure. put 'em in d3 -8. boom. def what i did on the original.
for the quad opamps, i went with tlc274cn
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc279.pdf?HQS=TI-null-null-alldatasheets-df-pf-SEP-wwe&ts=1638251496885&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F

out of all the quads i had, these seemed to quack and sound the best.

intersil ca3080e's a must.

there's new video uploading as i type this. it sounds pretty good. i haven't quite got it dialed in right yet but its pretty close. it even quacks without the fuzz in front of it.

so for mods, i went with a 500k trimmer for r5, which sets the gain of the first stage. turn til it sounds unity for output.

for r19, i went 10k trimmer pot. can dial it in, again, to where it sounds good.

added a reverse biased 1n914 between d16 ground and ground, with the cathode of the 914 to ground. this raised the voltage supply just enough to make the circuit come alive.

c2 is a snubber cap for the fuzz. it sounds like ass with it in there. don't even install it. if you must, go as small as possible.

for d1 and d2, the clipping stage of the fuzz circuit, i went 914 and bat 41 on one side, and 914 and 1n60 on the other. sans c2, it gets a fairly useable and more robust overdrivey fuzz that way.

d3 thru 8 should all be germanium. it just simply quacks better.

i tried every dual opamp i had. to my ear, as predictable, the lowly 1458n sounded best. something about the way that chip sounds, dirty or clean, works for me. very smooth and not harsh.

i didn't implement the jack for an exp pedal, as i doubt i'd ever use it.

still think it needs just a touch more quack.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUFU3HFhaNM

as ya can see, it had quite a bit of rework, so it looks kinda nasty. just flux and glass dust from taking out the 914's lol... did it from the top of the board. didn't wanna have to disassemble the dang thing.



i got 1:07 am here, est and it says the vid is 77% done being processed, so i imagine any time after about the next half hour it should be visible.





  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr