Fried my Tri-Vibe

[TTANGO]

I pulled a boner and fried by TRI vibe that was actually working.  It had a little pop when I toggled the switch, very minor and I could have lived with it.  During the review I discovered that I used the wrong IC3 when I used a TL062 in place of a 022.  During the inspection I had unboxed everything and then hooked it up to and plugged in the power and fried R37 the 22r resistor right after the D1 shotkey diode.  I rebooted everything after replacing the resistor and the pedal worked, it made noise and the bypass light was on, and we noticed R37 smoking again.

I unplugged everything and now I am in the process of debugging the problem.
My friend has a huntron (component) tester and I started down the path using that.  I have been studying signal analysis documentation and the huntron tracker and I am trying not to call my friend every 5 minutes to ask questions. So, here we are.

Schematic is located here:  https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/tri-vibe_documentation.pdf

I can post pictures of the huntron if anyone knows what everything means.  I will have to transfer photos but will do it. Everything seems normal except the 100k  R35 and R36 resistors which on the scope go 6 to 12 which means 0 resistance. R37 which is discolored goes 10-4 as it should but needs replaced.

D1 has the V shape with the left side going 6 to 12, as the documentation shows it should do, with forward voltage being the left side.
The capacitors are fairly elepticle but are impacted by the resistors  so they show more of a reverse D, even though one looks like a heart.

I have only tested the power system so far up to C13 and the pull down resister which is flat as well. the huntron that we have is old, and it only measures up to 1M and that picture of an example is pretty flat anyway, so The 2.2M resistor may be fine.

thanks for helping me too steer in the right direction as I am flying pretty blind.

[PRR]

That's too many parts to hunt with a Huntron and no clue.

Check power supply and be sure it has not failed HIGH voltage. We want near 9V.

Replace R37 with a 150 Ohm resistor. Power up. What do you get at VA?

Smoking R37 can NOT be from anything past R35, so the whole IC1A VB system is not suspected.

VA powers opamps. One of which you already fought with. Installed backward? Solder blob? Bright light and a magnifier finds many faults.

[TTANGO]

Thanks PRR.  I will check that this evening

[TTANGO]

Sorry for the long pause, but life happened and I had no time

I replaced the resistor and it works, kind of.
But now I have another problem which I am debugging and will post separately if needed.

\thanks