Momentary switch with TRS jack

Started by Sophia2001, June 26, 2024, 01:38:00 PM

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Kevin Mitchell

I definitely meant a 3PDT switch - like the common stomp switch configuration :icon_lol:
It's just a matter of switching out the latching circuit's output for a pullup and repurposing the tip & ring connections to GND and the pullup node.

I'll put up the schematic for you shortly. Sorry about that!
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Kevin Mitchell

#41
Here you go!



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Sophia2001

tested and it works! Thanks Kevin!!!

Two additional questions:

1) When using the momentary switch, a "click/pop" sound can be heard. This is not due to the switch. Tested multiple switches and also a simple wire. Any idea what this click-sound could be due to?

2) At the moment the situation is as follows:
- Panner is set. For example, 0/100% wet/dry or 50/50% wet/dry. By switching the momentary switch it becomes 100% wet. Exactly as I asked.

What should the schedule look like if it had been: 100% dry regardless of the Panner setting. Using the momentary switch activates the Panner setting. For example 50/50. In fact, this is the exact opposite of what I have now.

May I ask you to make a diagram that accomplishes this?

Sophia  :)

Kevin Mitchell

About the non-latching doing the wrong action;
Look at it this way - what you have is equivalent to an upside-down DPDT. Since this isn't a switch you can physically spin 180° to correct, you'll have to swap the "throw" connections on the CD4053 pins. Pin 12 with 13 and 2 with 1.

The popping;
You could...
-Add 1M pulldown resistors (to GND) to the switch pins of the 4053. Add them to the poles (pins 14 & 15). You can also try this with the throws (12,13,2 & 1) to see if that helps.
-Add 2.2uF capacitors per the GEOFEX drawing. These are ideal for switching audio signals but I wasn't sure if they were necessary for this idea.

If you didn't know;
The way I set up your 100% wet signal is by emulating the potentiometer in such a position - one side to 0v and the other to a 10K to 0v - which is the same as the 10K pot set to 100% wet. You can adjust these connections however you'd like. So, say if you wanted to force 50/50 wet/dry in that setting rather than 100/0, you would instead use two ~5K resistors to 0v on each side instead of the 10K on one and 0v on the other.

The information I've provided here is more than enough for you to experiment and perform any changes on your own. We are of course on the side-lines to answer any questions  ;D
I'll redraw if necessary as a curtesy - but I'd rather it be an opportunity for you to understand the circuit so you can comfortably modify it to your preference.

Just a reminder:
Don't forget that there are two left-over inverter buffer channels (the 4049). You also have an option to use those to reverse the latching position as well as the LED status (consider this basic computational logic). There's also one more SPDT channel left on the 4053 if you choose to use it for anything.
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Sophia2001

Hello Kevin and other DIY enthusiasts,

I have been working on this schematic for a while now. It works exactly as I hoped. Thanks for all the help.

However, there is one problem I can't seem to solve, the "pop" sound when switching on the momentary switch. I have tried:
- Different switches / direct wires instead of momentary switch
- Pin 14 with 1M to GND, Pin 15 with 1M to GND
- Same for pins 1, 2, 12 and 13
- Same for pins 9, 10 and 11
- A 1M, 2.2uF, 1M before pin 14 as suggested by GEOFEX
- Same for pin 15

So far nothing helps. The "pop" sound when switching remains.

Any other suggestions?

Sophia  :)

Sophia2001

Additional:

- I have adjusted the schematic to the Non-Latching schematic (without the CD4049). Still a pop sound can be heard. So CD4049 is not the cause for the problem.
- I connected the Panner send (to the effect) and the Panner return (of the effect) directly. Still a pop sound can be heard.

So the problem is somewhere in the Panner / CD4053 part of the schematic.

Anyone?

Sophia  :)

Matthew Sanford

See this thread
There was an image purge so schematics are reposted, but it may help
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

Controlled Chaos Fx

Sophia2001

Hi Matthew,

Thanks for the effort. I looked at the schematics you sent. To be honest, I don't have enough DIY knowledge to figure out a solution from this. Could you be a bit more specific about what I should change in Kevin's schematic?





Sophia  :)

Matthew Sanford

To be honest I don't know enough. I believe the voltage levels being different between the two signals is what causes the pop, I just haven't had time to get into the cmos switching yet to know better about it. One thing on the schematic, is the unused CD4053 input tied to ground? May not matter, but is best practice...
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

Controlled Chaos Fx

diffeq

A quick fix idea: decrease C4 and C6 down to 220nf

Harder fix idea: bias cd4053 properly  :icon_biggrin: see additions in red. Note that resistors connect to VB, not ground.


Sophia2001

Thanks diffeq, I'll try your suggestion as soon as possible.

Sophia  :)

Sophia2001

I had some time to look into it. I tried your suggestion.
- The 10uF capacitors + resistors to Vref according to your drawing make the pop sound noticeably worse. I used 470K because I didn't have 500K lying around. I assume that doesn't make much difference.
- Then I replaced capacitors C4 and C6 with 220nF. Again, a bit more pop sound?

Vref = 4.52V
+9V = 9.33V (Boss PSA 230S power supply)

Any idea what else I can try?

Sophia  :)

Kevin Mitchell

#53
This is why I had asked that you refer to the "Geofex" writeup for improvements. These are issues that usually scare people away from using these 4053 switching solutions and the writeup details the remedy.

10uF is quite large for this. The writeup suggests 2.2uF in those locations.
I suppose next would be to add 1M resistors to ground before those capacitors.
After those two adjustments, you'll have exactly what I had recently used for no-click bypass - though I had used 1M instead of 510K (or 470K) for all resistors - including the VB resistors you've just added.

Combating noises on a breadboarded circuit can be a challenge. Post a picture of your circuit and we'll suggest some ideas to improve it. Capacitor positions are important for adequate decoupling & filtering of the power supply.
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garcho

Quote...like putting on a suit & tie to eat at Denny's.
While the only requirement is shoes and a shirt.

No pants?!

Sofia, if you can afford it, maybe it's time to try actually soldering components to a board. As Kevin said, breadboards are noisy by nature, for more than one reason.
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"...and weird on top!"