Dead end fx switchblade (Last Gasp Arts Super Oscillo Fuzz 88) clone

[Kikuri Hiori lover]

i got everything (caps and trans) from tayda and all the physical components from I Love Switches i'm a 100% noob never built a pedal before i am kinda handy with a soldering iron as i have replaced stuff in DS-1s and soldered in a graphic EQ for my SVT-350. things like that what are some dos and don't i'll need to be aware of>

thanks  

[amptramp]

Welcome to the forum!

Be sure you have everything you need before you start because some things are dependent on others.  If you have bought a printed circuit board that has positions for the pots, that sets the drilling dimensions for the enclosure.  Finishing the enclosure is often more of a problem than soldering the electronics.  You have to decide whether you are going to etch or polish or paint the enclosure and this kind of advice is usually not supplied with the enclosure.

Build the circuitry first.  If you have bought a printed circuit board, be sure you have the component layout.  Nothing is worse than having everything you need except the documentation to put it together.  If you don't have a board, you can use a prototyping board or make your own printed circuit board.  There are other options like point-to-point wiring on terminal strips (for simple stuff) right up to cordwood (for the masochistic pleasure of pain).

Make sure the components you have selected can be assembled from inside the box so that if you have to take the electronics out, you don't have to unsolder anything.  That includes switches, jacks and LED's.  You will be doing a test fit into the unpainted or otherwise unfinished box then taking it all out again for the finishing process of whatever type you choose.

Be sure you have a good digital multimeter.  For general use, I have one where the ohms scale goes up to 30 megohms.  Many only go to 2 megohms and if you start working on a tremolo or anything else with high-value resistors in it, they may exceed this value and you need to be able to measure them.

Let us know how you are getting on with the job.  Don't be afraid to ask questions.  We don't bite.  At least not until you get within a few days of the full moon and then all bets are off.

[moid]

One thing I found immensely helpful (as an amateur with electronics) was switching the type of power socket I used. The standard one that most people use has a nut that fastens on the inside of the enclosure, so you have to drill the case, insert the socket, tighten the nut and then solder all the cables... and if I'd stuffed something up with power or ground, I would have to unsolder the power jack before taking the pedal out of its enclosure to test things... so I discovered that you can get power sockets that fasten with a nut on the outside of the enclosure and that means you can take the circuit out of the enclosure without having to unsolder anything!

Visually - nut on the inside(don't buy these)


Nut on the outside (buy these! Or don't make mistakes; whichever you prefer!)

[GibsonGM]

Another 'tip' is don't be afraid to get an enclosure that's a bit larger than you think you'll need.  You see these guys packing a delay or chorus or something into those TINY 125B size enclosures; then YOU try it, and you're breaking stuff, lol.   When building from a kit, everything is usually fine since it's laid out for you - but when you do your own layout, a little more room can be a lifesaver.

I've found a 1590BB-size enclosure works well for less-than-complex things and gives me plenty of forgiveness.  Even when I use those power jacks with the nut on the inside!   

If you get a hole in the wrong place, JB weld can be used to fill it and then sand it, nobody will ever know.

[moid]

Another 'tip' is don't be afraid to get an enclosure that's a bit larger than you think you'll need.  You see these guys packing a delay or chorus or something into those TINY 125B size enclosures; then YOU try it, and you're breaking stuff, lol.   When building from a kit, everything is usually fine since it's laid out for you - but when you do your own layout, a little more room can be a lifesaver.

I've found a 1590BB-size enclosure works well for less-than-complex things and gives me plenty of forgiveness.  Even when I use those power jacks with the nut on the inside!   

If you get a hole in the wrong place, JB weld can be used to fill it and then sand it, nobody will ever know.

Totally agree - I caused myself so many problems trying to squeeze cicruits into small boxes... I've given up now - large enclosures are fine

+1 on the JB Weld - it hides a variety of sins / errors / additional ventilation issues.

Oh another tool that is useful is a 'helping hands' or a PCB holder so you don't have to juggle too many things while you are soldering.

[Kikuri Hiori lover]

hmmm i see... thanks for all the input i did buy a 125B case lol as i wanted the same footprint and style as the 88 but yeah i'll place everything first like i've done with mic builds. maybe take it in to get drilled and yes i did get the nut inside one lol i'll just triple check and check twice more lol

(i am also bidding and winning on a KatanaSound super bass fuzz. 7 hours left) if i win i'm sending it into the Deadend FX guys to be cloned. i was wondering if i can help name it lol and the band that uses the super 88 and and super bass fuzz is Margarette Hiroi a well known underground jp band (bassist for 88kasyo Junrei) i am also a anime fan and Kikuri is inspired by them lol also the bocchi crew is based off asian kungfu generation etc....even bought a pacfica and a yamaha TRB4 cause of this show lol. 

[Kikuri Hiori lover]

okay i so Via the build docs i have placed R1-14 Now i am just waiting on the reset of the parts and yeah i will need a helping hand next time as 2 toggle switches are off kilter. now the Big question does the pot orientation really matter, i'm talking with a dude that is also building and helping me with any questions i have. and so i have everything "internal facing the closed side of the pedal " face" he told me that the square solder pad is 1 and if i place facing side counter clockwise is*not loud* "up" and clockwise is *loud* "down"

the ** "is normal pedal orientation". i'm fine with the way i want it as it just makes me unique lol. i now Do know this is the "wrong way" to go about it but i do know the mistakes and i Do plan to do it right, as i am going to be building and gifting a 88 clone to a friend of mine.

[amptramp]

There are some circuit boards designed so that the pots and switches are designed to go on the same side as the components and others where the pots and switches are on the solder side of the board.  Make sure you know which type of board yours is.  Some boards are mounted by the pots and switches and others have  separate mounting standoffs.  Not sure what you have but you should make sure you know what you have.

[digi2t]

All the DEFX boards indicate which side components go on via the silkscreening. On 99% of the projects, pots go on the opposite side of all the other components. Any exceptions (for space saving purposes) are clearly indicated in the build docs.

With that said... if you want backwards pots, hey... it's a free world.

[Kikuri Hiori lover]

ah okay good to know i bought new pots as i kinda @#$%ed the solder job so i'll install them the "right way" now lol