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How fill a mn3007 in a mxr flanger clone!? Noob inside

Started by slash_83, September 07, 2011, 03:42:23 PM

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Govmnt_Lacky

#40
September 13, 2011, 03:44:08 PM
Quote from: Fender3D on September 13, 2011, 03:38:02 PM
yep but you do have a 50% duty cycle, then ~1/2Vcc

Is this because of the 3007 retrofit?

I know with the SAD1024, I read a constant Vdd voltage at the clock pins on the 4013.

Bottom line is that the ORIGINAL circuit measures ~15V on the clock in BOTH my vintage and clone units.
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Fender3D

#41
September 13, 2011, 03:56:02 PM
Maybe your DMM reads clock's RMS value (it's about 15Vac @32KHz to ~1MHz, scope will show you the true waveform from ~0V to ~15V also). When measuring DC, DMM will read the average voltage available then 15V @ 50% duty cycle ~7.5V

That's why I did suggest to check for a proper clock above not just a voltage.
Whether you have not a proper clock BBD may stuck.
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

slash_83

#42
September 14, 2011, 05:55:09 AM
I m waiting for an oscilloscope

Today i ve cleaned pcb and checked soldering... NoW I CAN HEAR a "bump bump" sound from amp...if i rotate spped pot it became more quick or more slow...maybe something is going right...

jdub

#43
September 14, 2011, 10:06:51 AM
Slash 83, what layout was used for your clone?  Did you build it yourself?  I'm asking because I had some issues with solder bridges on my Shredaholic layout.  Have you checked for bridges on both the mainboard and the daughterboard?  Once I took care of the issues on the main board, it really was just a matter of plugging in the daughterboard and adjusting the trimpots, so I'm wondering if at least part of your problem might not be mechanical...especially if the MN3007 is getting hot... ???
A boy has never wept nor dashed a thousand kim

slash_83

#44
September 14, 2011, 10:35:13 AM
I ve lost my patience. I ve disassembled it.. Dont ask me why..etc.. I ve had this pedal uncompleted for years..hoping someday i d have repair it..now my Time is finished..monday i ll go away for working...about 9 months.


I think i ll buy mxr 117 original.. :icon_rolleyes:

oldschoolanalog

#45
September 14, 2011, 11:27:43 AM
I don't know why, but I find this depressing. Next time you, or anybody else for that matter, has this sort of "can't be fixed" pedal problem I implore you to put it down and step away from it for a few days. Don't return to it until you can look at it and not have it make you angry/crazy. This fresh mindset is often all that is needed. Sometimes the issue just pops out at you when a more relaxed attitude prevails. Best of luck on all future builds; and on your long work stint, slash_83.
In closing I would like to share w/everybody a PM I wrote a prominent member of the "Modulation Community". It was about a small, simple circuit I just couldn't get to work. This was written after I took a couple of days off from messing w/it. I called this PM "A Comedy of Errors/Murphys Law Lives!". Enjoy...
OK, so upon close inspection this is what was going on...
Error #1:Take a bag of transistors marked 2N3904 and randomly grab one. Do not look at the actual part itself. (Hmmm...)
Error #2:Solder part into PCB according to component layout in "paint by numbers" fashion. Do not give it a second thought. "I don't need to cross reference no stinking schematic!"(Hmmm2...)
Error #3:When circuit doesn't work troubleshoot over and over, convincing self that the components chosen & layout are perfectly correct. "How dare this not work!"(Hmmm3...)
Wait, it gets better.
Error #4:Convince self that you did connect the emitter to the output. (Hmmm4...)"I've installed countless numbers of these things. I know which pin is which!"
The realization(s):I installed a 2N3906. Backwards.  The component layout shows the 3904 installed backwards (Assist *****! ) Lessons learned. I really should have caught all of these things. Guess it's time to "raise my game" a notch. Nice dose of humility also... The good stuff: It works as advertised. no volume loss at the output except at the highest clock f's (very slight) but this is something we have known about for a while. I would still like to change the filtering to the parameters I mentioned earlier.

As you see the problem was solved after all. Patience & persistence, my friends...
Mystery lounge. No tables, chairs or waiters here. In fact, we're all quite alone.

jdub

#46
September 14, 2011, 12:01:27 PM
Words of wisdom, Dave.  For me, flangers have proven especially irksome; my first Electric Mistress required several "just walk away" periods.  And, inevitably, the problem would be something that I had assumed was correct... needless to say, I nearly crushed that bloody thing underfoot many times.  But I sure learned a lot.

Slash 83, I too am sorry about your lack of success.  You're not alone in the frustration that DIY effects can bring  :-\.  Best wishes for your work travels.
A boy has never wept nor dashed a thousand kim

Govmnt_Lacky

#47
September 14, 2011, 12:19:14 PM
Jumping on the "Step away.." theme:

When I finished my most recent M117 clone, I could not get the darn thing working. Passed clean signal only!  :icon_mad:

It worked on the darn breadboard, WHY WON'T IT WORK NOW??  :icon_mad:

After 12.... yes 12 STRAIGHT hours of debugging I was at my wits end. The next day I put in another 10 hours... still no workie!  :icon_mad:

It wasn't until I took an entire weekend off that it took about 5 minutes to find the problem.

It was the madbean layout for a 125B and when I trimmed the PCB to fit in the enclosure, it cause a microscopic hairline crack in the groundplane along the edge of the board which essentially removed ground from the BBD and the Clock chips.  :icon_redface:

30 seconds of soldering and it was up and running like a champ! That was the first time in about 3 years that I had to put that much debug time and effort into a build but, the theory still stands true!!

WALK AWAY and calmer heads WILL prevail  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Fender3D

#48
September 14, 2011, 12:30:58 PM
Come on "picciotto"  :icon_wink:

Where's the italian-do-it-better spirit gone?

Follow your PCB against schematic (shredaholic's is ok), though job but good new is your SAD might be working (if the issue is on PCB).
This boring stuff will teach you a lot, you bet...
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

slash_83

#49
September 14, 2011, 01:58:35 PM
Thank u to' all guys..

I would like to' do it.. Not just for use this effect...but to' be' able to' understand what have i done and what i ve failed!

I thnk tomorrow i ll clean pcb or maybe i ll do another pcb.

Some of these components were recycled from an old pcb of a mxr flanger that didnt work too ( yes it was the2 pcb i ve Made of this pedal)


So... If i ll not Time to' do it i think i ll bring pcb and components with me @ work and in the spare Time ill do it!! :D

Thank u...

jdub

#50
September 14, 2011, 02:40:19 PM
That's the spirit!  :D
A boy has never wept nor dashed a thousand kim

tonyamme

#51
September 02, 2024, 10:35:15 AM
Hi everyone, I know this is a very old forum but I still hope you can help me. I have an old broken electric mistress v6 clone. The sad1024 is not working (I had it tested by a technician). I thought I could replace the sad1024 with the doutherboard I found in this forum. Can you tell me if it's okay? If it goes well, can you tell me how to connect it to the electric mistress PCB?
Thanks in advance
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