Help with forum vibe

Started by Toastman, January 22, 2025, 08:38:46 AM

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Toastman

Hello, so I had already built like fuzz face clone and Octavia. Decided I wanted some challenge so I went for uni vibe - forum vibe kit from musik ding.

I had maybe overstimated my abilities

So what is wrong, everything.
I wired it for true byppas, there is no sound coming through. The led is light on all the time, the foot switch doesn't do anything. The bulb is not working. I quickly checked if voltage is even going through the circuit and it is...

I posted he diagram also


https://i.postimg.cc/phhFtVWk/IMG-20250122-142937068.jpg[/img]





antonis

1st of all, Welcome.. :icon_wink:

2nd: Let's fix your picture URL

3rd: Sorry but this isn't a very healthy wired & soldered switch.. :icon_wink:


"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Toastman

Yeah, it's probably my fifth resoldering, and it's ugly, but but there are no touching parts, I will resolder it right this time. I will post more pictures.

Oh and menaged to get the light bulb to light and oscilate. So that is great.

Toastman

So i suppose, if the PCB is working right, that the problem is in my wire soldering, because, it doesn't work when it is bypassed. Am I right?

antonis

Just check circuit's working state, like below:

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Toastman

Thanks. All right it works, amazing. I just can't get the led to stop glowing when its turned off. Is there any other way to solder it?

antonis

#6
I don't think LED is set permanently ON due to particular wiring..

There might be some kind of short between LED's Cathode and GND, somewhere.. :icon_wink:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Matthew Sanford

Tin your stranded wire - this I say from foolhardy experience. Easiest way I know is spin them tight, dip them in flux, then get a bead of solder on your iron and apply it right away - the flux will just soak it into the wire, then you don't have frayed ends that may or may not touch other stuff.

Otherwise don't listen to me, you've got Antonis, one of the (dare I say) deities of this place!
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

Controlled Chaos Fx

antonis

#8
Quote from: Matthew Sanford on January 22, 2025, 04:12:19 PMOtherwise don't listen to me, you've got Antonis,

I think Antonis implied just the same as you clearly stated, Matthew.. :icon_mrgreen:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Matthew Sanford

Quote from: antonis on January 22, 2025, 04:33:10 PMI think Antonis implied just the same as you clearly stated, Matthew.. :icon_mrgreen:
Too true, kind sir, but you know the implications sometimes need explications... oh who am I kidding? If more words can be used, I'm sure to use them! Here I go again, how many pointless words am I adding...how many can I add... hmmm... oh my goodness so many pointless words! :)

Still, many a foolhardy mistake of mine has been pointed to by Antonis with red arrows on pictures, a man who makes sensible use of words and images that are worth...well, at least a thousand of them!
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

Controlled Chaos Fx

amptramp

Beware of damaging the 3PDT switches with excessive soldering heat.  They are very delicate and the pins may start "moving" if excessive heat is applied.  If it looks like a solder pin is out of position, the switch is probably in bad shape.  Be sure the wire and the pins are tinned so the minimum amount of heat is needed to make the connection.

antonis

Additional to what Ron well said.. :icon_wink:

It might be a good idea to roughen switch lugs with a fine file or sandpaper to make tinning more easy and quick..
Use flat solder tip of the same size with switch lugs (about 2mm) and solder wire 1mm or larger..

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

GibsonGM

I consider the lugs of stomp switches to be bedded in "wax". They will melt if they get too hot! 

To prevent this, I like to use a smaller gauge of wire for them (and other offboard wiring).  We may call this 'telephone wire', or Cat6 wire from inside a communications cable you wish to part with (we all have them).

I've had no trouble with non-stranded for these connections.  I lightly pre-tin the wire, insert it into the switch lug, and hit it QUICKLY with the iron & solder to make a good connection.  The lighter gauge is easier to keep neat to to avoid shorts, and can easily take any current we'll throw at it, the LED or whatever. Be careful when stripping it to not create nicks in the copper from the stripper, and you're good to go. My innards don't really flex, so the wiring isn't moved much - if I could find small gauge stranded, I'd use it, tinning it like described above (but I never find much).

My best day building came when I put away those fat, stranded wires that are too bulky to organize and make a mess of the soldering, the insulation melts, ugh...just a thought that might help you.
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