Millenium bypass help.

Started by digi2t, October 01, 2016, 07:24:48 PM

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digi2t

I've been slogging along with a Son of Storm Tide build (no.... not on vero), and I'm trying to figure out a bypass scheme where I could integrate an LED for on/off indication. It's a stereo build, and the schematic shows a 4PDT switch, but would it be possible to use the 4PDT switch with 2 mill bypass circuits at 15v, and power one LED?

The switching section schematic is here; http://jhaible.com/legacy/sonofstormtide/sost_sch6.pdf
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R.G.

The Millenium is a sensitive detector of a resistance lower than about 1M to ground. A resistance to ground lower than about 1M turns the LED off. A resistance much greater - like a few mm of air - turn the LED on.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

digi2t

Quote from: R.G. on October 01, 2016, 08:24:22 PM
The Millenium is a sensitive detector of a resistance lower than about 1M to ground. A resistance to ground lower than about 1M turns the LED off. A resistance much greater - like a few mm of air - turn the LED on.

Gezzz... I'm a twit. Only need it on one input/output. Don't know where my brain wandered to on this one. Thanks for the boot in the pants R.G..

For some bizarre reason, I thought.... not frankly sure what I was thinking actually. :icon_lol:
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duck_arse

Quote from: digi2t on October 02, 2016, 09:10:34 AM
I thought.... not frankly sure what I was thinking actually. :icon_lol:

the start of daylight saving, maybe? that's my excuse for the next couple of weeks.
Hey, Scoop - how's your security clearance?

Check your Signal level there, Scoop - I thought you said witchhunt.

digi2t

Nope, can't be it. That's not till Nov. 6. Just decided to pay a visit to the Twitdom is all. I can live with that.  :icon_mrgreen:

Like my poor brain box didn't have enough to deal with, I decided to build a giant assed flanger, AND a giant assed preamp, at the same time!

Well, at least I'll have some tasty dirt to feed the flanger with. :icon_cool:
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chuckd666

Jeepers... that thing is large. Are you building it on a proper PCB? Maybe perf this time?  :icon_wink:

digi2t

Quote from: chuckd666 on October 04, 2016, 08:44:07 AM
Jeepers... that thing is large. Are you building it on a proper PCB? Maybe perf this time?  :icon_wink:

No. Point to point.

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LightSoundGeometry

Quote from: digi2t on October 02, 2016, 09:10:34 AM
Quote from: R.G. on October 01, 2016, 08:24:22 PM
The Millenium is a sensitive detector of a resistance lower than about 1M to ground. A resistance to ground lower than about 1M turns the LED off. A resistance much greater - like a few mm of air - turn the LED on.

Gezzz... I'm a twit. Only need it on one input/output. Don't know where my brain wandered to on this one. Thanks for the boot in the pants R.G..

For some bizarre reason, I thought.... not frankly sure what I was thinking actually. :icon_lol:

dont worry , I got you beat ..while making me a amplified antenna to get some free analog tv channels, and was going to stick it outside on the roof lol ..a copper tube right to my nice tv would of been a doozy when a storm rolled in ..good thing the thought only lasted about ten minutes lol

Tony Forestiere

Quote from: digi2t on October 04, 2016, 12:25:37 PM
Quote from: chuckd666 on October 04, 2016, 08:44:07 AM
Jeepers... that thing is large. Are you building it on a proper PCB? Maybe perf this time?  :icon_wink:

No. Point to point.



Very mojo. Could you write an essay on your technique? BWAHAHAHA!  :icon_lol:
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bluebunny

Quote from: digi2t on October 04, 2016, 12:25:37 PM
Point to point.



Nah, this is point to point:   ;D



Cray 2.  Wires all (mostly) the same colour.
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anotherjim

Quote from: digi2t on October 04, 2016, 12:25:37 PM
Quote from: chuckd666 on October 04, 2016, 08:44:07 AM
Jeepers... that thing is large. Are you building it on a proper PCB? Maybe perf this time?  :icon_wink:

No. Point to point.


Peeww  :o
I've seen nicely installed & bunched wire runs torn apart because commissioning engineers had to hand trace every wire point to point. After that they call the installers back in to tidy it up again.




digi2t

Quote from: bluebunny on October 05, 2016, 02:57:43 AM
Quote from: digi2t on October 04, 2016, 12:25:37 PM
Point to point.



Nah, this is point to point:   ;D



Cray 2.  Wires all (mostly) the same colour.

OK... is it the blue wire... or the blue wire? Maybe the blue wire?
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ksg5

I am having problems with my millenium bypass builds. The first time I built one, it worked fine. The second time, I could only get it to work outside the enclosure, so I abandonded it and got a 3PDT switch. Now I gave it another try, and I am seeing the following strange behaviour.

The DPDT swtching works but the LED turns on only when I am touching the grounded top of the enclosure or the mosfet. When I let go, or when I ground myself (e.g. through the guitar strings), or when I ground the grounded top of the enclosure to the grounded bottom, it goes off.

I guess it picks up some strange combination of my body's capacitance and a ground loop but what is it exactly and how can I make it work?

All three times I built the circuit using this version of the circuit and a 2N7000 mosfet (and yes, it was oriented correctly).

I have been scratching my head with this, so any help will be appreciated!

duck_arse

welcome to the forum.

please be providing more information. pictures of the thing always help. what are you connecting it to, and how?
Hey, Scoop - how's your security clearance?

Check your Signal level there, Scoop - I thought you said witchhunt.

ksg5

Connected to this silicon fuzz circuit using a DPDT switch with standard wiring (as in the layout I previously linked).

Rob Strand

#15
Quote from: ksg5 on Yesterday at 10:07:58 AMConnected to this silicon fuzz circuit using a DPDT switch with standard wiring (as in the layout I previously linked).

As a sanity check try putting a 10M resistor across the diode on the Millennium ckt.   If all is working and you have the wiring correct it should come to life.  The downside of the resistor is it will pop when you switch the pedal in and out.   Once you establish it can work you might need to try a different diode, one with more leakage.   It's likely the diode leakage isn't enough to contend with other leakage paths to ground in your build or components (possibly even the MOSFET).
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