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Drilling Boxes

Started by MRTelec, January 27, 2004, 02:58:31 PM

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MRTelec

Hi,

I've always had trouble drilling straight holes in my boxes and was wondering what methods you guys use.  I have a drill press and have tried using templates, measuring with rulers, everything and they almost never come out perfect.   :x

Thanks!

Chris R

you drill a small pilot hole first right ?  and then drill the bigger hole.

C

MRTelec

Not usually.   :oops:   I usually just use a punch and then drill.

Arno van der Heijden

Did mark the drilling location with a center punch or a nail? It prevents the drill from walking away.

Edit: you were faster then me and already answered my question before I asked it  :D

Brian Marshall

a punch will work much better than a nail.

i drill a 1/8" hole for all first, and then go back and finish

Brian

Marcus Dahl

After careful measuring and marking use a punch and then drill with the appropriate size. You can get a punch and chisel set at NAPA for $3.95.
If you like the layout you created, make a register of it with 2x4s and a junction cover. After you get your 2x4s around the box by screwing it together, leaving the bottom open and one of the sides. Take the box that you drilled out, and drill your holes into the register. from there take the box out and then on top of your register place the junction box lid(can be gotten at Lowes, Home Depot) screw that into the top covering the holes that you already drilled out. Place your drilled out box back in, and drill out the appropriate holes into the junction box lid. Cheap and easy.  :D
Marcus Dahl

MRTelec

Quote from: Marcus DahlAfter careful measuring and marking use a punch and then drill with the appropriate size. You can get a punch and chisel set at NAPA for $3.95.
If you like the layout you created, make a register of it with 2x4s and a junction cover. After you get your 2x4s around the box by screwing it together, leaving the bottom open and one of the sides. Take the box that you drilled out, and drill your holes into the register. from there take the box out and then on top of your register place the junction box lid(can be gotten at Lowes, Home Depot) screw that into the top covering the holes that you already drilled out. Place your drilled out box back in, and drill out the appropriate holes into the junction box lid. Cheap and easy.  :D

I'm trying to understand...You just make a template out of a junction box lid that sits on top of 2x4s?  Sounds simple enough.  You'd have to make another one to do the side holes, right?

petemoore

Lay the box over a piece of paper.
 Mark the sides of the box on the paper
 Cut the paper to the size of the box
 Fold and crease the paper along parallel lines and turn the paper 1/4 turn and fold and crease the paper.
 Mark where the creases cross and lay the paper square over the box and tape it there...punch where you want the holes...[you should have perfect symmetry but check..]
 Starting with graph paper...?
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Marcus Dahl

Quote from: MRTelec
Quote from: Marcus DahlAfter careful measuring and marking use a punch and then drill with the appropriate size. You can get a punch and chisel set at NAPA for $3.95.
If you like the layout you created, make a register of it with 2x4s and a junction cover. After you get your 2x4s around the box by screwing it together, leaving the bottom open and one of the sides. Take the box that you drilled out, and drill your holes into the register. from there take the box out and then on top of your register place the junction box lid(can be gotten at Lowes, Home Depot) screw that into the top covering the holes that you already drilled out. Place your drilled out box back in, and drill out the appropriate holes into the junction box lid. Cheap and easy.  :D

I'm trying to understand...You just make a template out of a junction box lid that sits on top of 2x4s?  Sounds simple enough.  You'd have to make another one to do the side holes, right?

Yes and no. Where you drilled your holes out on the register(top side made from the 2x4s) you lay the junction box lid on that, and redril those holes. That way when you use your drill press or hand drill, you will have a better guide and you wont shave away at the wood holes as much over time.
Marcus Dahl

MRTelec

Quote from: Marcus Dahl
Yes and no. Where you drilled your holes out on the register(top side made from the 2x4s) you lay the junction box lid on that, and redril those holes. That way when you use your drill press or hand drill, you will have a better guide and you wont shave away at the wood holes as much over time.

So, you don't use the wood when actually drilling the boxes, just the junction box lids?  Sorry if I'm making this difficult.   :lol:

:twisted:

Marcus Dahl

Quote from: MRTelec
Quote from: Marcus Dahl
Yes and no. Where you drilled your holes out on the register(top side made from the 2x4s) you lay the junction box lid on that, and redril those holes. That way when you use your drill press or hand drill, you will have a better guide and you wont shave away at the wood holes as much over time.

So, you don't use the wood when actually drilling the boxes, just the junction box lids?  Sorry if I'm making this difficult.   :lol:

:twisted:

No problem.  8)
You do use the wood, but the lid is there to help with the wear. You screw that on to it. I'll go take a picture and put on my website for you to see.
Give me a little bit. I'll be back  :?:
                                             :D
Marcus Dahl

The Tone God

Check out the Jiggerealla article at the site on how to build a simple drilling jig for boxes.

http://www.geocities.com/thetonegod/

Andrew

bobbletrox

Yikes.  I use a kid's school ruler and a HB pencil to mark out the guides, then I drill the box using one of those big ol' U shaped hand drills.  It works out fine  :oops:

Marcus Dahl

Here ya go. I'm not real good with wood. So I had my father do it for me. I don't have all of the tools too. I built a prototype stomping box for a client of mine, and you could tell it was a prototype. This is similar to the jigerella, but a little sturdier in the area of the hole drilling. Its also more final too. As for the colored #2s and a ruler, when you do more than one with at least five holes on top you don't get much else done.
http://homebrewelectronics.tripod.com/HomeBrew/BoxTemplete.html
Marcus Dahl

MRTelec

Quote from: Marcus DahlHere ya go. I'm not real good with wood. So I had my father do it for me. I don't have all of the tools too. I built a prototype stomping box for a client of mine, and you could tell it was a prototype. This is similar to the jigerella, but a little sturdier in the area of the hole drilling. Its also more final too. As for the colored #2s and a ruler, when you do more than one with at least five holes on top you don't get much else done.
http://homebrewelectronics.tripod.com/HomeBrew/BoxTemplete.html

Ah, I get it.   :P   Thanks!

Mark Hammer

The drill has to "know its destiny".  If the tip is sharp and pointy, it quickly establishes itself into the metal.  If the drill is broad and the tip somewhat flat, some type of punch is needed to seat the drill so that it establishes itself.  If the bit is large, then the dimple made by a punch may be insufficient to do that job.  Here a punch-produced dimple serves to seat a small-gauge bit, whose modest hole serves to seat a larger-gauge bit.

I don't know about you vision, but it always helps to have decent lighting by your drill press, and if you have to wear safety goggles for eye protection, may as well go to the local dollar store and get some 3.5 magnification reading glasses for a buck or two to protect your corneas.  Anything that makes that dimple look like a crater to you helps the drill find its way there more accurately.

If you're like me, as well, small gauge bits can often be broken by the bit seating itself into a PCB a little off-axis.  As you press the handle to lower the chuck into the board, the bit gets bent if it doesn't go down absolutely straight, and you find yourself breaking them.

Whether making PCBs or drilling chassis, I find a spring-loaded centre-punch with a nice sharp tip, and a perfectly clear crisp view of the board/chassis absolutely indispensable.