Clear coat finish questions.

[zenpeace69]

I don't really have the space to do alot of spraying and was wondering if there is an option other than spray cans?  Is there a type that I can brush on with a few quick layers and leave to dry?  It seemed that the spray can took alot of time to dry and was pretty gaseous for the household.  

Are there alternatives?

[brett]

Clear powder coating.  Haven't used it myself.  Object must be able to handle baking at about 150C or 300F.

good luck

[Gilles C]

Did you ever tried a roller?

I did. It gives a nice finish, without the mess that spayers do.

I also want to try an airbrush to see if I can control the spray mist.

[zenpeace69]

Did you ever tried a roller?

I did. It gives a nice finish, without the mess that spayers do.

I also want to try an airbrush to see if I can control the spray mist.

No, but it sounds like a great idea.  What kind of clear coat finish are you using?  What brand?  Are the fumes bad?  Is it quicker than spraying?

[bobbletrox]

I'm about to commit DIY heresy here, but my advice is to ring around at a few powdercoaters or custom auto paint shops and see if they can help.  From my experience, if you don't have the right tools for the job, find someone who does!  I take my enclosures to a powdercoater I found in the local phonebook and he does my enclosures for $6 a piece...and they come out looking amazing.

There's a custom auto guy who specializes in spraying hotrods in the same industrial park as my powdercoater, so I'm gonna see what kind of crazy things he can do  

[toneman]

Hey,
Anything that comes as a liquid in a can/bottle can B brushed on.
Try the polyurethane clear material used for hardwood floors.
If the coating leaves a few brushmarks, U can probably (wet?)sand
them out if U have enough thickness.  Of course, Practice on something
similar first.  BTW, avoid the "water-based" urethanes.
tone

[Gilles C]

I normally go to art supply stores when I want something special because they have everything for projects.

I like to use acrylic paint or clear coating.

Good info to read:

http://www.rosco-ca.com/products/scenic/glazes.html

And auto parts stores also have good clear coat paints and lacquers.

Even better than art supplies. I remember now that I used car paint the first time.

I also used some leftover from a guy who put a protective clear coating on a concrete alley. Hard stuff... The best

[Nasse]

Dont know how it works for clearcoats but I have done few small paint jobs with foam pad (just took a piece of porous soft polyurethane foam) and "tapping" with it you can make a surface without brush strokes. It gives some "orange peel" effect but it is nice technique for some jobs. Works best with paints that do not dry too fast. I know some people have painted cars using this technique :roll:

The idea is to take small piece of foam (about 100x100 mm... 50x50 mm  or smaller) and somewhat squeeze it in the back so there is a peak in the middle and the edges gently go down

[ildar]

Assuming you are using aluminum enclosures, the best primer coat to use is XIM, a primer specifically formulated for metals and other adhesion-problematic surfaces. It comes in clear or white(white is great when using metallic topcoats), and you can use most paints as a topcoat (not lacquer, however). I'm a painting contractor in the daylight hours, and that's what we use for all metal surfaces. It is available at Lowe's or your local paint supply house.

[Gilles C]

Is that what you're talking about?

http://www.ximbonder.com/products.html

I'm interested in trying a new and better primer...

[ildar]

Gilles:
The site was not respondong so I'm assuming that's the stuff.
It's called XIM bonder, anyway  
This is hands down the best primer for metal-no need for any esoteric and expensive materials.

BTW-for best results scuff the box with light (400 grit) sandpaper before applying any primer-this is added insurance for proper paint adhesion.


I also read somewhere that a toaster oven was a good tool for baking the finish on. Try 200 degrees for an hour after all coats have been applied and are completely dry (8 hours). Baking the finish helps accelerate the curing procees, which can take up to 30 days.

[Gilles C]

From their site:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
400 Clear:  Clear bonding Primer/Sealer and Bonding Fortifier for solvent based paints.
400 White:  White version of the bonding Primer/Sealer. Top-of-the-Line Adhesive Bonder
400 White ES:  Low VOC version of 400W White Bonding Primer/Sealer.
Plastic and Vinvl Primer Off:  white version of the Bonding Primer/Sealer specifically designed for Plastic surfaces including Polypropylene, PVC, and others.
UMA brand®Advanced Technology:  White water based Bonding Primer/Sealer
UMA brand®Advanced Technology:  Tinting Base Bonding Primer/Sealer
100 Flash Bond:  Clear Bonding/Sealer for sign manufacturing.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I will try to find some of the 400 Clear or White. Looks good.

[ildar]

Yes, the 400 line is what I'd recommend.
Good luck, and let me know what you think of the product.

[Gilles C]

I also have to try that for my next box.

http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_resources.asp?docid=BDNGPRJCTMNGLPH

One coat of clear, an image, and another top coat of clear. All applied with a roller.

On second thought, maybe that it would not be compatible together. But I could try using the bonder in place of the omnigel to do the same.  :roll:

Could be worth a try for a more resistant/permanent result.