Ross Compressor Not Quite Right...

[mindwave_21]

Ok, so I've heard that the Ross compressor cuts your highs.  Well, I thought nothing of it and finished the build about 5 months ago.  Now, I think that my pedal is slightly off spec.  At first, I had mistakenly put in a 22 pf film cap where the 220 pf was supposed to go (the one that was spec'ed incorrectly on the GGG site).
 Anyways, when I tried the pedal, it was gating, but really transparent in terms of tone and harmonic balance of lows, mids, and highs...it sounded like my regular tone was just gating (no compression).  I quickly found the mistake, but all I had then was a ceramic capacitor pack from Rat Shack.  I used the 220pf ceramic and bingo! compression.  Maybe a little too much compression.
 I keep hearing about how transparent this pedal is, but what I'm getting when the effect is engaged is a slightly muddier sound.  Sounds like a blanket was thrown over the Traynor cab of mine.  Also, past 3:30 on the sustain knob, you can hear an audible "shifting sound" where there's noise, and then the noise just kinda cuts.  The compressor gets really squashy, and a little farty, so I figured that I just wouldn't use it past that setting.
 Well now I want to put this into my chain, but don't want this major tone loss (it's pretty bad, I have to turn the tone control on my tubescreamer that's before the ross from 12 O'clock to MAX, then turn my treble and mid up about 2 notches and the bass down 1 notch on my amp).  I'm thinking about replacing this crap 220pf cap with a film one, but I don't think RS carries it, and I'm not about to pay $5 for one cap from mouser (I'm not really making any more pedals at the moment).  I have some spare 100pf and 150pf caps from the same RS pack, so I was wondering if I could just put in a 150 instead of the 220pf, and if that would do the trick.  How much does ceramic vary, because I also have extra 220's from the same pack, but I heard that ceramics actually hold more than they advertise (because of the shorter lifespan I guess), which is why I want to go with the smaller values.
 Thanks again for the great help guys!

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Unless ceramics are specifically designed to be used as digital bypass caps (those little ones you see all over computer boards) they are usually pretty close to marked. And a bunch from the same order don't usually vary much. Try putting two in series to make a 110pf, and see if things move in the right direction for you.

[mindwave_21]

Is putting them in series making one attached to the other like off if the board?
o= capacitor
please ignore the asterisks, they are to keep the text in place
********o--- ---o**********
(board)__|______|___(board)

Why should I put it in series if I have to resolder the connections again anyways, and why is it better to have 110 than 150 or 100pf?  Sorry for the lame questions, but I've never really doodled with these pedals before.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Sorry, didn't realise you already had a 100pf there!
just stick that in & let your ears be the judge of whether it makes a difference, and whether it is in the right direction.

[WermooZ]

Someone told me that we must change placement of this condensator

it must be after output of opamp and before resistor.

In normal schematic this cap cuts some hi freq

Try it - i can't tell you is it good or bad