Metalflake Laquer - buff before clearcote?

[Dave Z]

I'm using metalflake lacquer, and wondering - is it OK to buff this stuff out between coats? Using Model master lacquer, no mention of buffing on the can

Also - what paints are OK to use over lacquer? Need to do lettering...


thanks!

[bobbletrox]

Whoa, I'm in the same boat.  I just finished spraying an enclosure with "clear" auto touch-up paint and have no idea whether I can buff this stuff or not.

[Dave Z]

bobbletrox, you can generally safely buff out only finishes that melt into the previous layer...that leaves us with lacquer & shellac. If your auto finish is a lacquer you're OK.


Polys, urethanes and epoxy finishes form separate 'skins' and if you try to buff them out you risk leaving an 'edge' when you break through  a layer.

I know i can buff a lacquer but wondering about metalflake, if it complicates the job.

[Lonestarjohnny]

I alway's just wet 600 the metal flake coat and then shoot the clear over it 3 or 4 coat's depending on slickness of the finish, then buff out the last coat, I've never heard of buffing out the metal flake coat, and if your worried about the roughness, you just need to fill it with clear and wet sand between coat's to get it slick.
Johnny

[lovekraft0]

Pros don't buff or sand flake color coats at all - if you want that traditional deep hotrod flake look, take the time to do the surface prep and primering, lay down very light coats of flake (don't try to cover in a single coat), gently tack it off to remove any loose flake, and bury it in multiple coats of clear before buffing it out. If you're using lacquer clearcoat over lacquer flake, it'll burn in completely, and once you've built up enough film thickness (10-12 medium coats for nitro, in my experience), you can buff it out like any lacquer finish.

[Dave Z]

OK, thanks gents...I'll do the lettering & then clearcoat & buff out.