Where/What Kind Of See Through Paint??

Started by Derrick, February 02, 2005, 06:16:51 PM

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Derrick

Where do you guys get see through colors to paint your pedals and what kind do you use?
THANKS!!
Derrick

For The Love Of God... Please Don't Ware So Much Cologne Or Perfume!  You STINK!!!!

brett

Auto shops.  You'll need 2 or preferably 3 coats dried under warm, low-humidity conditions (that's easy here in Australia!!).  Don't mess with low quality enamels, etc, for boxes IMO.  For solid color powder coating is excellent (and tough)

cheers
Brett Robinson
Let a hundred flowers bloom, let a hundred schools of thought contend. (Mao Zedong)

toneman

"transparent" paint is commonly refered to as "candy".
As in "Candy Apple".
[There's the 52nd AutoRamma going on now here in Sacramento]
U paint the candy over a basecoat of white, silver or gold usually.
Candy laquer is almost non exixtant here in california.
EPA laws, etc etc.
But, U *can* get good urathane transparents.
U'll just have go to several automotive paint suppliers to find them.
Be ready for the price shock, as these are not too cheap.
Another thought, try the model/hobby stores.
Some transparent paints can B had there.
If U can find pints and quarts, U can use an airbrush.
staytoned
tone
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mojotron

Has anyone tried puting polyurithene (like finishing a desk/table..) over enamel?

That stuff is super tough.

amz-fx

Quote from: DerrickWhere do you guys get see through colors to paint your pedals and what kind do you use?
Duplicolor - you can buy it at WalMart or AutoZone or Carquest, etc.  

-Jack

Derrick

Thanks for all the great relies.  I will Look for Duplicolor.  Do you suppose this would be the cheapest way to go?  I am thinking of using it for a small line of pedals.
Derrick

For The Love Of God... Please Don't Ware So Much Cologne Or Perfume!  You STINK!!!!

smashinator

Just wanted to chime in...  If you're going to be spraying automotive paints, don't forget that it's toxic!  Get a respirator that will remove organic vapors ($20 at home depot) and work in a WELL VENTILATED area.  Urethanes (such as House of Kolor) are sensitizers, so they might not noticeably affect you the first time you spray, but you WILL get sick eventually if you don't take the necessary precautions.

But, there is hope for ya, fella.  Auto Air paints are water-based (H.O.K. and others are solvent based), and "non-toxic."  Don't be fooled by the non-toxic, cadmium is cadmium whether it's in solvent or not, but at least the fumes won't kill you or your pets.  Wear a respirator that will filter out particulates.  Anyway, read the instructions and follow them exactly and you will get good results.  If you don't follow the instructions, you will probably get bad results.  So follow 'em.  Here's a link to their site http://www.autoaircolors.com/  There should be an auto paint store near where you live that sells them, or you can buy them online.

by the way, AA has candies... They're the 4600 line of paints.
People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it. - George Bernard Shaw

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Paul Marossy

QuoteHas anyone tried puting polyurithene (like finishing a desk/table..) over enamel?

I have. It worked fine. I think in some cases it doesn't work well, though. Seems to depend on the paint brands and if the spray paint (or enamel) is metallic, sometimes the polyurethane won't like it.

I recently made a pedal that uses a Testors metallic turqouise green kind of color with a Minwax spray gloss polyurethane clear coat. The two seem to mix well.

mojotron

Quote from: Paul Marossy
QuoteHas anyone tried puting polyurithene (like finishing a desk/table..) over enamel?

I have. It worked fine. I think in some cases it doesn't work well, though. Seems to depend on the paint brands and if the spray paint (or enamel) is metallic, sometimes the polyurethane won't like it.

I recently made a pedal that uses a Testors metallic turqouise green kind of color with a Minwax spray gloss polyurethane clear coat. The two seem to mix well.

Thanks Paul, I was thinking of using a dipping technique as well to build up a really thick plastic coat - which I think might look kind of cool...

Do something like - paint w/enamel dry, apply labeling, paint with clear coat, dip it into the urithene, wait an hour, redip, wait... 3 times or so - bake at 150-200 for an hour (to even out the coat), let cool for 24 hours and then scrap the bottom of the (main) upper 1590-DD piece. I was just going to use non-skid to cover the bottom piece....

I'm going to try this this week end...

Paul Marossy

Hmm... that's an interesting idea. Let us know how that turns out, with pics of course.  :wink:

mojotron

Quote from: Paul MarossyHmm... that's an interesting idea. Let us know how that turns out, with pics of course.  :wink:

Will do, I may get delayed if I mess up the lebeling stuff...