Last "1590B" build !!

[MartyMart]

OK, I've decided to "cave in" and go with either "deeper" boxes (some i've used in the past) or use 1590BB's for anything other than a simple LPB-1 etc.
It's very hard to cram a board/jacks/DCjack/knobs/LED and a battery anything like "neatly" in such a small place.
Perhaps I have "BIG" fingers or something, but I've also noticed that a lot of PP3 batteries just won't go "edge in" to this size as I just found out when "boxing up" my "May Queen".
Anyone else have thoughts on this ?
Its "Depth" of the box mostly, meaning its tough to have your "board" lying over the pots ( even small 16mm ) or "squeezed" between the jacks and the pots . . . .
rant, rant, etc etc . . . . . :cry:

Marty.

[lightningfingers]

getting a pp3 battery in a 1509B requires, i think, some patience and the right kind of battery snap. I bought some plastic ones from Craplin which i could grind/file down to the width of the box. Good for simple circuits with 1 knob.

[audioguy]

I love the look and feel of those small boxes, but damn it they're hard to use... Ive switched to Small Bears Wild Mouse size. They are a really nice compromise.

[mojotron]

Why compromise - go with the 1590-DD. You have enough room knobs, and room to add mods.

[Mike Burgundy]

yes its sometimes hard, i agree, but I also like to carry LOTS of pedals on my pedalboard (I'm thinking of building one 1m50 by 0.50...ahem), they do tend to look good that small, have a nice stompheight (I don't like the switches too high) and, I admit, I take a certain pride in cramming a full-blown dual band parametric in a 1590B. Even if that is still miles from some of the things a certain ZV does with a shoehorn (presumably)

[mattburnside]

I love the look and feel of those small boxes, but damn it they're hard to use... Ive switched to Small Bears Wild Mouse size. They are a really nice compromise.

Those boxes rule. One dimension that is NOT at a premium on the average pedalboard is height.

[hairyandy]

The 1590B can be hard to cram stuff into but you get a certain satisfaction once you do it successfully.  I'm currently working on stuffing a Rangemaster clone circuit into a 1590A-style box made by Bud.  It'll fit if you hard-wire the boost pot, stagger the 1/4-inch jacks and make it with a DC jack only.  It's a perfect lead-boost for that over-crammed pedal board!

[Mark Hammer]

If you are going to DIY anyways, and have plans to use stuff on a pedalboard, why not just scrap the battery and plan around external power from the get-go?  It can certainly get around the it-won't-close problem, and can free up a lot more space for either more chassis-mount controls, or more sensibly-planned board layouts.

Some folks may be thnking to themselves "Well, hell, if you're going to forego batteries and treat the pedals like modules, why not just build a mini-rack/frac-rac thing or maybe stuff all the pedals into a big sloped-front chassis?"  In some respects you're right, but at the same time, there is something to be said for:

a) the structural sturdiness of 1590B's
b) the way they neatly line up in a small package
c) their ease of availability and machinability
d)  the ease with which a new pedal board configuration with some subset of one's pedal "collection" could be constructed without having to design a new pedalboard or shift anything around

So, imagine the following...

The PCB layout has pads for those plastic PC-mount phone jacks at the back, and traces that come along the outside of the board to pads at the front for mounting a stompswitch of your choice with short leads (or maybe even none - solder right to the board!).  For any given project, you simply stuff the board, make sure your chassis holes are drilled/lined up right, and just slide the board in.

For those whose requirements DO insist on batteries, though, I think you'll agree there is a wide range of sizes and dimensions in batteries.  In particular, I find the outside casings of some to be bulky and a little problematic on their corners - namely bigger then they need to be for what's inside the casing.  Personally, I find the slimmest most 1590B-friendly battery to be the old Eveready Classic, though once in a while I find other cheap batteries with a similar profile.  The hardier industrial alkaline ones can often be a tight squeeze.

It is my understanding that there are ever so slight, but potentially useful differences in internal space between Hammond 1590B cases, and their Eddystone and Taiwanese functional equivalents.  Conceivably, the Eddystone or Taiwanese box may be what you need if there is a preferred battery brand that makes a comfortable fit difficult.

[bwanasonic]

If you are going to DIY anyways, and have plans to use stuff on a pedalboard, why not just scrap the battery and plan around external power from the get-go?

The main reason for me is I like to circulate my pedals among other players and may at some point try to sell a few. Adapter only use kind of limits the appeal. I like imposing the *discipline* of keeping the enclosure if not as small as possible, at least using the minimum real- estate I can manage comfortably. If I plan on using more than one stomp-switch, I'll plan around a 150BB. I use the 125B (wild mouse) for a lot of stuff, and the 150B for things like the fetzer and other assorted one-knob boosters.

Kerry M

[MartyMart]

Thanks guys for all the interesting responses/ideas
Perhaps I've got my "placement" wrong :

Pot/Pots at top
I/O jack sockets just below-either side
---space--- ( few cm's )
switch ( dpdt or 3dpdt ) DC jack on one side of it
battery
bottom of box

I've also tried placing the switch at the bottom, with battery just above.
Any other idea's, what about "Z-vex" style jack sockets at each end ??

Marty.

[lightningfingers]

pots at the top with jacks underneath is probably the most space efficient way to go. otherwise use trimpots with those teeny knobs fitted to them like the danelectro mini pedals.

[Paul Marossy]

One dimension that is NOT at a premium on the average pedalboard is height.

Maybe on your pedal board...  :wink: