Pedal enclosures

[Kcollins]

What to you guys use to make the holes? That weems to be the one thing I don't have the tool for so I should get something. Are there any that are pre-drilled?

[JimRayden]

I do't think you find any predrilled for a stompbox. Unless you do a custom order.

I've heard it's drillable with dremel tool. I use a big battery drill though.

Yea you should get something. An enclosure makes the circuits much more usable. They're a pain in the a$$ to test without an enclosure.

Good luck with building,

-----------
Jimbo

[Kcollins]

thanks, I'm probably gonna order all the stuf for a fuzz build today.

[Khas Evets]

I have the unibit for drilling holes and it's great.

[Peter Snowberg]

UniBit by Irwin.

These are available at most hardware stores because they're the standard bit used by electrical contractors. A single bit makes holes of several diameters so you don't have to change between led's, jacks, pots, and switches.

They're available in several sizes. I use a #4 UniBit. It was about $35 if I remember right, but they last a long time and they're fantastic.

It does help to use some paint to mark the right depth for each size you need.

Another nice thing about unibits is that they are very clean. They heave holes with a nice rounded edge if you want them to. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO USE OIL WHEN DRILLING METAL!

[Kcollins]

what's the standard size hole for a pot, in/out jacks, and swithes? small bear has a unbit #1 would that work?

[MartyMart]

what's the standard size hole for a pot, in/out jacks, and swithes? small bear has a unbit #1 would that work?

We're in "millimeters" here, so :

Pot - 8mm
Jack - 10mm
Footswitch - 12mm
SPDT/DPDT miniature switch - 5 or 6mm
3mmLED + bezel - 5mm
9v socket - 13mm

Marty

[Outlaws]

I could see the UniBit being usful, but IMO it seems lite it would be too easy to over drill and make the hole too big.  I could be wrong, but that is the first thing I saw when I first saw a picture of one.   :lol:

Anyways...I can't see anything wrong with getting a good drill and some bits.  You need a drill anyways for the UniBit, and the bits you need for the drill can be used for a lot of other things around the house.

Standard sizes I have found I use so far are 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2".  I am going to get a 15/32" bit if I see one sometime becasue I think it would fit the footswitch a bit tighter, but thats imaterial really.

Though I highly suggest getting a center punch.  My first box was all over the place.  Now they are starting to look "normal".   :roll:  

[Outlaws]

what's the standard size hole for a pot, in/out jacks, and swithes? small bear has a unbit #1 would that work?

We're in "millimeters" here, so :

Pot - 8mm
Jack - 10mm
Footswitch - 12mm
SPDT/DPDT miniature switch - 5 or 6mm
3mmLED + bezel - 5mm
9v socket - 13mm

Marty

And for us Americans....

24mm Alpha Pots - either 5/16" or 3/8"  (I found out the hard way there are two sizes of bushings)
Jacks - 3/8"
Footswitch - 1/2" (though I think a 15/32" would be dead on)
other switches - 1/4" usually
5mm LED and its bezel - 1/4"  (never used a 3mm yet, so I can't say)

[MartyB]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1169

[littlegreiger]

Peter you mentioned using oil when drilling.  What type of oil are you supposed to use and how to apply/use it?

[Johnny Guitar]

Peter you mentioned using oil when drilling.  What type of oil are you supposed to use and how to apply/use it?

When I was a kid I worked in my father's machine shop where we used a few kinds of oil, each for different metals. Typically for aluminum we used cutting oil which I think was mostly kerosene. Now when I drill I just use a little motor oil (an old quarter filled quart of Penzoil I think) which I apply with a smallish (1" to 2") paint brush. I apply a small dab of oil to the drill bit (not the metal) and it also cleans off some of the chips from the bit.

You don't need a lot of oil and you don't have to apply it that often. I haven't started with the unibit yet and you probably want to do it with every hole for that. But for traditional two hole (pilot hole followed by finish hole) I usually do every third or fourth hole on the pilot and every hole or every other hole on the larger size (since we are talking about area here). Oil helps keep the bit cool. I don't think the type of oil is that important until you start getting into the hard materials.


And the center punch is really important. For about twice as much as a standard center punch (which you hit with a hammer) you can get an automatic one which you just press hard at the center point and it punches on its own. I think if you plan on drilling more than 50 holes into metal it's worth the extra cost.

John

[Kcollins]

wha does a center punch cost?

[Outlaws]

wha does a center punch cost?

One for just a hammer?  $3-5

An auto-punching one?  $11-20.

[smashinator]

I could see the UniBit being usful, but IMO it seems lite it would be too easy to over drill and make the hole too big.  I could be wrong, but that is the first thing I saw when I first saw a picture of one.   :lol:

The nice thing about unibits is that there is a "thump" everytime you get to the next size up.  I just count how many steps I'm going to before I drill, and keep track of the thumps.  

[aaronkessman]

alternatively, you can use plastic enclosures and try shielding them - with aluminum foil or something. It'll probably be ok for things that arent high-gain.

likely cheaper and easier to work with than metal for the beginer.

[Goatmeal]

About the over drilling,like Peter said,take some paint ,or I just use my sharpie.and I color in the next step up from the size I need.Just stop at the step below your painted step.Example,if the steps are in 1/8" increments,and I needed a 3/8 hole,I color in the 1/2" step,then I know when to stop.I am a metal fabricator,and I use my unibits 90% of the time (as opposed to standard twist drills).Very clean,fast and pretty accurate as far as staying on center.If you are drilling a hammond type die cast box,lubricant/coolant is not too critical,a little wd40 or 3in1 goes a long way.If you happen to have a steel box in front of you,drill an 1/8"pilot hole first(all of them),then switch to the unibit.If you only have wd40,then use lots of it,but thicker oils are better.You can just keep a small jar of motor oil,or stp oil treatment.As you get to bigger steps on the bit,slow your drill speed down,assuming it is variable.Then  you can use the next step of the drill to chamfer the front and back of the hole.Cant do that with a twist drill.