fuzz central fuzz face...

fuzz_fanatic · April 10, 2005, 06:20:51 PM

i am trying to build the germanium fuzz face (it's positive ground) from fuzz central but i don't know how to wire it as it does not say what to do with the rest of the wires. i guess leg number 3 from the volume pot. is going to output? what about leg number 2? and how do i wire a barrel connector in the box as well?

i am kind of new so go easy on me

thanks!

phillip · April 10, 2005, 06:40:26 PM

Leg 3 of the "Level" pot is soldered to the 0.01uF output capacitor on the circuit board. The center lug (wiper) is soldered to the output. Leg 1 is soldered to ground.

Hope this helps!
Phillip

petemoore · April 10, 2005, 06:40:57 PM

k...ez...lol
FF's don't work right on adapters, so I'd figure out a ripple-less power supply before planning on running it from anything other than a battery.
Point the potshaft at you, turn the volume down [like CCW] the lug that the pointer would be pointing at is ground...now turn the potshaft all the way up...that lug is where the 'input' [from the fuzz face output cap] to the pot is.
the middle lug on the pot is called the wiper, that goes to the switch to the output jack.

fuzz_fanatic · April 10, 2005, 09:42:26 PM

ok so now i know about the lugs on the colume pot., now...

the board got two ground points, i connected the rings from the input and output jacks there... so i should connect the 3rd leg from the pot. to whatever "ring" that is closest to it? or does it make a difference?

also... i have the -9V going to the middle of the power adaptor (where the +9V would go to) and the the board is connected to the lowest lug together with the LED that won't light up (even though I changed it polarity). if this will be solved I am a happy man.

petemoore · April 10, 2005, 11:30:53 PM

Tip tip
rings in the middle [no ring on mono jacks
sleeve [all mono and stereo jacks have these
Metal jacks...run a wire from sleeve to board gnd
plastic jacks I run a wire to intput and output jacks and board gnd
I make onboard gnd connectgions with solid core wire from the central ground point [usually that's a wire run across perf, about 1'' so I have room to put a long-er 10'' wire, de-insulated a short section in the middle, string through the central gnd point [generally at the bottom of the board], twist the deinsulated middle section, then soldered to it...bamm two ground wires coming off the board]. One for Volume control on FF and one for gain...
So now you have the box...if you used metal jacks the Gnd is made to the box [as long as you didn't paint there] and the other jack.
If you used plastic jacks and want a shielded grounded box a ground point will need to be established, I use a screw with a eyelet>stranded wire>to board Gnd.
If you're using battery defeat stereo jack wiring for the input jack

petemoore · April 10, 2005, 11:35:19 PM

Someone correct ME if I'm typing this wrong, I just run a Gnd wire from a metal input jack sleeve in a metal box to a gnd point on the board.
Then I run ground wires to all ground points from there.

fuzz_fanatic · April 10, 2005, 11:52:46 PM

I am using metal switchcraft jacks and painted box.

so this is right?

1. i have two ground points on the board, one should be connected to the input jack's sleeve and the other one to the output jack's sleeve?

2. leg 1 from the volume potentiometer runs to either the input or output jack's sleeve (does it make a difference?)

3. the "ground" from the 2.1mm power input goes to either sleeve (input or output, doesn't matter?)

phillip · April 11, 2005, 12:06:05 AM

Hmm let's see. Looking at a picture of one of the reissue Fuzz Faces:

There's a wire from Fuzz 1 to the sleeve of the input jack, which has a wire that goes to the sleeve of the output jack, which has a wire that goes to Volume 3 which has a wire that goes to a ground point on the circuit board.

Basically all the grounds for the pots and jacks are all chained together and connected to the board with a single wire.

The other ground pad on the circuit board was used for the "grounded input" true bypass wiring.

When I use a battery and a 2.1mm DC power jack (Mouser 163-4302 power jacks) in the same box (ONLY in negative ground circuits), I solder the negative lead of the battery to the negative center pin solder point on the jack, then run a wire from there to the ring of the input jack so that the battery and dc power jack are disconnected when the cable is removed from the input jack.

If you want to use this method with a positive ground pedal, you'll have to use an adapter with reverse tip polarity...the center pin will have to be positive and the sleeve will have to be negative, and you'll have to use the positive lead of the battery instead of the negative lead.

Just remember that you can't use the same adapter with postive and negative ground pedals. The positive ground pedals will need a seperate adapter.

Hope this helps!
Phillip

petemoore · April 11, 2005, 12:09:01 AM

Quote from: fuzz_fanaticI am using metal switchcraft jacks and painted box.

so this is right?

1. i have two ground points on the board, one should be connected to the input jack's sleeve and the other one to the output jack's sleeve?
two grounded points...hmm
anyway, run a ground wire from the board to both jacks, unless your'e already getting a ground on both jacks after connecting board Gnd to the input jack sleeve.

2. leg 1 from the volume potentiometer runs to either the input or output jack's sleeve (does it make a difference?)
I still run wires from the board ground point to the pots...1 wire from there to ground both jacks and the box.

3. the "ground" from the 2.1mm power input goes to either sleeve (input or output, doesn't matter?)

This must be the DC power jack, and I never use them, and can recommend trying a wall wart power supply on a FF, not using one...as far as how to wire it, me being unfamiliar...Gnd must go to Gnd...[which would be V+ on a Pos Gnd FF]...daisy chaining to neg Gnd effects of course causes direct shorts of power supply.

petemoore · April 11, 2005, 12:18:20 AM

Cool, so they're running a wire around in there that hits all the Gnd points.
That makes it neat and easy if your'e starting with all new pots 'n jacks, just get the right lengths between where you make de-insulated spots along the one wire, thread it through the jacks and pots, then solder 'em down..EZ cause you can make the wire hold itself in place...having all this as 1 piece is nice too.
Since gnd wire is a gnd plane [so to speak...not like a high gain signal wire]...I always wondered what difference it would make as long as the lengths aren't long, where exactly the wires are laid...and they have to go to the same points anyway...somewhere I got the idea that running 1 wire to the board gnd point from sleeve[s, then to all other points from there was the generally accepted practice.

fuzz_fanatic · April 11, 2005, 12:22:46 AM

OIC !!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks for the help.... i will have to wire it again

but at least noe i know how!!!!

fuzz_fanatic · April 11, 2005, 03:24:18 AM

ok so everything should be ok now. i also bought a small 10k trimpot and i installed it where the 8.2k resistor should be. i can get 4.5V on the collector for Q2 but i get no reading from the collector of Q1, I have a few extra ac128 around and i installed them in Q1 but none will give me any reading on the collector.

petemoore · April 11, 2005, 08:31:57 AM

Pick a socket lug from Q1, say the collector, see what the resistance between there and V+ is [battery out and transistor out].
Q1B to Q2E [should be 100k]
Q1Emitter is Gnd.
Q1C to Q2B Should be a direct short.
Go through the board like that, with DMM seeing how close the boards measured resistance/continuity/ etc. 'are' when compared to what the schematic specifies.

fuzz_fanatic · April 11, 2005, 11:16:42 AM

Quote from: phillipHmm let's see. Looking at a picture of one of the reissue Fuzz Faces:

There's a wire from Fuzz 1 to the sleeve of the input jack, which has a wire that goes to the sleeve of the output jack, which has a wire that goes to Volume 3 which has a wire that goes to a ground point on the circuit board.

are you sure that it should not be connected to volume 1? volume 3 is going to 0.01 cap on the board.

phillip · April 11, 2005, 01:26:03 PM

Quote from: fuzz_fanaticare you sure that it should not be connected to volume 1? volume 3 is going to 0.01 cap on the board.

You're right! In order for the volume pot to work correctly (work at all), volume 1 needs to be grounded. Volume 3 is attached the output side of the 0.01uF capacitor (the output capacitor).

Sorry about that...it was getting late and the sandman was calling

Phillip

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