Pre-Build Mods

[critch]

Ok, im just about to carry out the BSIAB II project, and i want it as mean and versatile as possible, so are there any switches i should add to switch between massively sound defining components, and such?
My aims are to create a versatile pedal, with a solid sound, for Death Metal, Nu-metal, etc...think of arch enemy!
thanks

[vanhansen]

Wohhh, I say wohhh.  Slow down there.    Start with step 1, get it built first, as it is on the schematic and layout.  If you try to do too much at once with little or no experience, you WILL run in to problems and get frustrated, quit the whole thing and spend your money on something you don't even want.  Besides, even when you do build it, there IS the troubleshooting stage, which can get frustrating in itself.  I'm not going to lie to you about that.

Buy two boards.  Build one totally stock, get it working as it should.  That will be gratifying in itself.  Then, if you feel that you want to add some versatility to it, build the second one and add the mods in once it is working without them.  You can search the forums for "BSIAB mods" and get some good ideas, but first, get the stock circuit working.  Don't worry about the mods yet.

Remember the 5 P's: Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance.

[critch]

well i wanna build it to be as versatile as possible, which will be more difficult later on, when the circuit is built

[vanhansen]

No, not really because you would have built one already and be familiar with what to look out for.  Throwing too much in to the mix at once will only lead to increasing the amount of troubleshooting when problems do arise.

I got the same enthusiasm as you did when I heard the BSIAB II.  Couldn't wait to build it.  I then did the beginner project and built the ROG Ruby Amp, 2 simple little builds, to get me started in the DIY world.  Still haven't built the BSIAB yet though.  :roll: I just haven't had the time.

I'm not saying that building the BSIAB as a first project is impossible because it isn't.  A few people on here have done exactly that and having a pre-etched PCB sure helps.  I'm just recommending slowing down a little bit to avoid hitting a brick wall without recovery.

[critch]

i see what ur saying vanhasen....but i do have enough electronics expirience, probably could troubleshoot well enough :roll:
and im looking at the GGG wiring/pcb diagram:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/bsiab_2_lo.gif
and im wondering...do i need the DC jack?
Im using Torchys layout btw...and i dont get some of the connections! what is the LED+ connection? And where is SW1(bypass switch)?
thanks

[vanhansen]

No, you don't necessarily need the DC jack unless you want to power it with a 9V DC power supply OR a battery.  Not a bad idea to be able to do both.  No fun when batteries die in the middle of a show.

I'll have to look at Torchy's layout a little more to see where everything goes. The switch is easy.  Just follow the normal true bypass wiring diagrams on this site (they are everywhere).

The LED+ connection is positive voltage to the LED indicator.

[KORGULL]

I recommend putting the circuit together on a breadboard first. That will be the easiest way to try out different modifications and you can get more familiar with the schematic and work out any problems or questions you might have very easily - without de-soldering stuff. When you get it sounding the way you like - then solder it together.
If you find that you don't even like the sound of it, you can easily try out more pedals on the breadboard - without messing up your parts by soldering and cutting the leads.
I'm just finishing up a BSIAB2 myself - on perfboard though.
If you use sockets for all the JFETs and C6 (minimum) you will be able to make some substantial changes to the sound of the pedal after it is soldered together and boxed up. Get some extra J201s and 2N5457s so you can try out all different combinations. Some of them (the JFETs) might sound better than others too.
Good luck.

[critch]

thanks krogul, i dont know why breadboarding didnt occur to me! and why c6? coz i was thinking of making some components switchable via a #-way control.....just to add the versatility i want, but i dont know which components are the real sound definers.

[vanhansen]

Ok, for the pots wiring, read the FAQ on how the lug order goes:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/cnews/FAQ.html

Now, look at Torchy' layout and just follow the diagram.  He has R19-1, R19-2, R19-3.  These are lugs 1 through 3 of the 500K-A drive pot.

Just follow the layout.

[critch]

ok, thanks guys, i have now sorted all probs i had, i have also got it all planed, and i have been told that my planning is correct...
thanks again, really appreciate it