Why not socket everything on a PCB?

[ryanscissorhands]

With all of the tweaking and modding and whatnot that people do on breadboards before using a PCB, why not use those Smallbear break-off sockets and socket all pads? I'm going to be socketing most caps, all transistors, and all IC's--why not make a PCB into a Printed Bread Board?

Somewhat of a self-answer: it adds height to the entire circuit, which makes fitting it in that much more difficult. Any other reasons why this is a bad idea?

[niftydog]

Connections can become dubious or intermitent over time due to corrosion and movement. It's debateable whether socket connections are EVER as good as a well soldered joint. The components can fall out due to shock or vibration. Socket pins aren't rated for multiple insertion/removal cycles, they would crap out after a while.

[Gringo]

When i'm doing heavy tweeking on a pcb, i usually solder this to the board:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=64

, but hand made with solid core wire. Then solder the component to them. Sturdier than the cheap sockets i get around here, also VERY handy for pot wiring that keeps breaking when you tweak.

[gotdabluz]

IMMHO

I think it is a good idea to socket the silicon stuff like ICs and Tranny's since it reduces the risk of damaging these very sensitive components while soldering.  They tend to wick heat and flux up the leads and can be fried pretty easy.  They are also the things that tend to be swapped out the most or perhaps be the troublesome component that might need a replacement.  Diodes and other clippers may also benefit from socketing, since they are often a point of experimentation.

Caps and resistors are a little more tolerant of the heat (though you should always be careful) and are cheaper and easier to acquire and replace if damaged accidentally, so I wouldn't bother socketing these.

If you aren't sure about the final config of you boards components, then just breadboard it and play with things until you are happy with makeup of the circuit.  Granted, breadboarded circuits can sound and behave a bit different than a soldered up board, but it will get you in the right ballpark.

--SG

[Hal]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[petemoore]

All my boards have sockets
 IC's
 Input cap always starts off as a socket or a cap twisted on the end of a wire
 I don't think I've burnt a cap or resistor when soldering them in.
 Diodes...?
 I use a little bit less sockets these days, because I can tell from exp. that certain parts probably won't benefit from being tweeked, others I can figure out tweeks for.
 For resistors...I may start with the 'large one, and leaving a little lead length to solder to, above board, then 'tag' a parallel resistor to the one on the board, thereby making 'that value 'smaller'...experiment, then leave it the way I want it to look/sound. Resistors are 'cheep'.
 I do the same for caps sometimes, parallel or series...
 A good one I figured out for cap value tuning is...say for seriesed caps/one cap...at one end of the seriesed pair of caps, I'll solder in a short length of deinsulated wire...this way I can try 'with/without' [altered value of the one cap being bypassed by the wire]...I just wrap the other end of the wire around where the two caps meet to try the one cap tone, remove one end of the wire for the two cap tone...if I decide I want a switch there, the wiring for that is already half there. [Emitter bypass caps, input caps etc.]