CE-2 Trouble

[Bassisst90]

Got the tonepad board and put it all together and all I get is bypassed signal whether on or off. Not sure why and I've been looking through all the debugging for the CE-2 on the site and I couldn't find the correct voltages. Please let me know what you thing is wrong

Supply voltage- 9.4 v

IC1                                                   IC2                          IC3                           IC4
1- 5.95    5- .3                                   1- 9.4     5- 4.68       1- 8.38     5- 0           1- 8.38   5- 0.3
2- 5.95    6- 5.95                                2- 4.7    6- 2.74       2- 4.33      6- 4.29      2- 4.29   6- 7.34
3- 5.86    7- (alternates from 0 to 5)     3- 4.6     7- 1.33      3- 5.16      7- 5.23       3- 0       7- 3.03
4- 0        8- 9.33                                4- 0        8- 9.4        4- 0.57      8- 5.23       4- 4.33  8- 0.57

Q1           Q2           Q3           Q4          Q5
E- 4.83     E- 5.19     E- 4.95     E- 3.89    E- 0
B- 3.81     B- 5.13     B- 4.16     B- 3.71    B- 0.4
C- 9.4      C- 9.4       C- 9.4       C- 8.38    C- 7.04

[Bassisst90]

Tried checking for Cold joints and I can't seem to find them (maybe they just look like the regular joint). New voltages:

Supply voltage- 9.4 v

IC1                               IC2                          IC3                           IC4
1- 4.56    5- 4.54         1- 9.39    5- 4.69       1- 8.77      5- 0           1- 8.77   5- 0.18
2- 4.56    6- 4.56         2- 4.69    6- 4.78       2- 4.46      6- 4.44       2- 4.44   6- 7.99
3- 4.5     7- 4.56          3- 4.5       7- 1.27      3- 3.84      7- 3.56       3- 0       7- 2.61
4- 0        8- 9.41          4- 0         8- 9.41       4- 0.59      8- 3.56       4- 4.46  8- 0.59

Q1           Q2           Q3           Q4          Q5
E- 4.83     E- 5.19     E- 4.95     E- 3.89    E- 0
B- 3.81     B- 5.13     B- 4.16     B- 3.71    B- 0.4
C- 9.4       C 9.4       C- 9.4       C- 8.38    C- 7.04

Should I post pictures of the board?

[dthurstan]

I haven't built this pedal

IC1 volts look ok.
IC2 pin1 looks like its sitting at V supply.
IC3 & 4 Im not sure about as these work differently than opamps.
Q1-5 (except Q3) all the C's look good, but I think there should be at least a diode drop between E & B (0.5-0.7V)
Q3 looks good. C sitting at V supply & a diode drop between B & E.

Posting pics is a good idea. I couldn't figure out what was up withan easyvibe I built, put the pics up and some eagle eye spoted a shout very quickly. I was sure there wasn't any.

Hope this helps. 

[Bassisst90]

Here are some pictures of the board, top and bottom sides

http://img230.imageshack.us/i/dsc00957g.jpg/
http://img151.imageshack.us/i/dsc00959o.jpg/
http://img214.imageshack.us/i/dsc00960b.jpg/
http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dsc00961h.jpg/
http://img815.imageshack.us/i/dsc00958.jpg/
http://img46.imageshack.us/i/dsc00962f.jpg/
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6212/dsc00963hx.jpg
   
Haven't looked at it in a few days, been working on stuff. I haven't really seen anything and I have seen two solder bridges on the board, but they're on the same trace, so those should be fine. Maybe someone can see a cold joint that I can't? I am not usually able to spot them.

[dthurstan]

Looks like a good build I can't see anything wrong. I notice on the tonepad schematic that some components are greyed out. Why is that? R's 2,6,9,10,12,16,17,18,27,34,37,38!! Which of these have you left out? I previously said that Q1,2 weren't setup correctly. They are as far as I can see. (c = Vsupply, e = b - 0.6v). Do you know why IC2 pin1 is at supply voltage?

You could try an audio probe!

[Govmnt_Lacky]

The greyed out resistors only mean that they are installed vertically instead of laying down on the pcb.

dthurstan is right about IC2. You should NOT have V+ on pin 1.

Also, I may be wrong however, either IC1 or IC2 should be your LFO and all pins (except pin 4 and pin 8  ) SHOULD BE fluctuating around Vref or around 4.5V

You should take a GOOD LOOK at your board and ensure you didn't miss any jumpers, check for correct cap/resistor values, and check for solder runs. The high voltage on IC2 pin 1 and the fact that your LFO is not "fluctuating" tells me that these are your likely culprits.

I also see some "extra" holes drilled and what looks like solder runs under IC2 that DO NOT match the layout. In your pictures they are not populated. Whats with those?

Good Luck  

[Bassisst90]

So, I did not leave out any of the greyed out resistors, not sure about IC2 (can't see anything wrong), I had done an audio probe and audio stops at R21 (but I don't know why as I've resoldered it multiple times and nothin). Checked all capacitor and diode orientation, all's well. IC orientation seems just fine. The extra holes came with the board and aren't part of the layout, not quite sure why they're there. Didn't miss any jumpers. Never heard the term solder run, is that a solder bridge? And still not sure about the transistors as they seem to be in the correct orientation from the layout and they match the same type of transistor as well (2n5088).
I'm gonna try another audio probe test, try to see if I screwed up any readings or values, look over and resolder any cold-looking joints and hope for the best.

Just looked at values and I found two wrong ones so far:
C4 needs to be 100pf, but I put in 10pf (I thought it said 101 on the cap, but it said 10j)
R26 needs to be 100k but I put in 10k.
I need to be near my components to check some other resistors (7 I'm not too sure of because they're metal film and you can't tell what the hell the color code is)

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Never heard the term solder run, is that a solder bridge?

Yes. Sorry about that. I often refer to them as solder runs but they ARE solder bridges that I was referring to.

Just looked at values and I found two wrong ones so far:
C4 needs to be 100pf, but I put in 10pf (I thought it said 101 on the cap, but it said 10j)
R26 needs to be 100k but I put in 10k.
I need to be near my components to check some other resistors (7 I'm not too sure of because they're metal film and you can't tell what the hell the color code is)

Looks like you are on to something. These are the usual culprits. Google for the resistor color code chart/calculator and you will have it up and running in no time. Let us know if you get it working. 

[Bassisst90]

So I've replaced those parts and I've resoldered a bunch of shoddy connections so now I do get chorus, but only as I turn the depth knob. The rate knob doesn't seem to do anything. Voltages are:
Supply voltage- 9.4 v

IC1                               IC2                          IC3                           IC4
1- 4.52    5- 4.50         1- 9.40    5- 5.07       1- 8.24     5- 0           1- 8.25   5- 0.56
2- 4.52    6- 4.53         2- 5.07    6- 2.79       2- 4.32     6- 4.27       2- 4.27   6- 3.39
3- 4.46    7- 4.53         3- 9.23    7- 9.40       3- 3.81     7- 3.67       3- 0       7- 3.23
4- 0        8- 9.40          4- 0        8- 9.41       4- 0.56     8- 3.67       4- 4.32   8- 0.40

Q1           Q2           Q3           Q4          Q5
E- 3.57     E- 3.82     E- 3.65     E- 6.15    E- 0
B- 2.91     B- 3.91     B- 3.18     B- 5.50    B- 0.45
C- 9.4       C- 9.4       C- 9.4       C- 8.20    C- 6.36

Anyone have an idea?

[thedefog]

You should do some tests to iron out whether it is the pot, IC2, or your clock.

Check resistance on the pot and make sure it reads correctly first. Considering you previously had issues with IC2, there is a chance you blew out the opamp on that part of the chip, but the other 1/2 is still functioning.

[Bassisst90]

Thank you so much! I replaced the IC and I got chorus (it also seems as though I wired the potentiometers the wrong way LOL). Oh, man, months gone and I've finally got a working chorus!

[thedefog]

Awesome news! That was a somewhat easy one too, just wait until you start debugging the bigger stuff...