Target Voltages for RM Octavia

[analog kid]

Does anyone HAVE, KNOW or know WHERE I can find the voltages for the Roger Mayer Octavia?? I  have built the Tyco and the RM and both seem to have a bit of a misbias sound only when the strings are plucked super lightly or the volume is cleaned up alot. Otherwise they sound normal I suppose when the gain is up.
I  matched the voltages on the ggg site for the tyco and they are spot on . The RM however is hard to find anything to go by. And with a PNP driving into three MPSA13's these voltages may be critical.  And I'm finding some strange Base/Emitter drops. I'd like something as a reference
my  Q4 vltg are:
C 8.8v
B 3.6v
E 4.7 v ( shouldn't this be LOWER than both the collector and Base?)
Q1
C 8.6
B 3.5
E 4.8

strange, Q1 and Q4 are the only ones with the vltgs set up like this. Q2 and 3 are more normal (C 5.5 B 3.0 E 2.0)
shcematic i used is here
http://bryant02.home.att.net/schematics/mayeroctaviaschem.gif

[warioblast]

Here's the voltages I mesured on my original RM Octavia:

battery: 8.9V

Q1
e: 4.62 V
    b: 3.74 V
    c: 5.66 V

Q2
c: 3.18 V
    b: 5.66 V
    e: 6.68 V

Q3
c: 2.69 V
    b: 4.37 V
    e: 6.19 V

Q4
c: 0
    b: 2.12 V
    e: 5.47 V

I hope it will help you  :wink:

some pics of the circuit
http://fabrice.detang.club.fr/rm\index.htm

[analog kid]

I appreciate you doing that. I will fire it up and check tomorrow.  I just tossed mine in a drawer because although the octave isthere , it's definitely NOT as thick or noticeable as would be expected.  I even built a Tyco Octavia since then and IT had a really bad misbiased sound when volume or fuzz INtens. is anything but full on., it was worthless!   The only vltgs I could find for the Tyco OR RM was GGG where there was aNPN ground version that had target vltgs listed.
I was beginning to think that this is just something inherent in all the Octave up / "fuzz" effects. but for as many BAD reports on the Tyco and RM's there are as many that say how SMOOTH the Mayer is and that the Tyco is many's favorite. SO the lack of a smooth, even  fuzz/octave definitely is a sign of something wrong!!!
ALSO curious do the values in your original match up to all the CORRECTED Versions of the RM , like this one?
http://www.geocities.com/j4_student/rmcorrect.gif  
AND as discussed in this thread> ?

[brett]

And with a PNP driving into three MPSA13's these voltages may be critical.

There's your problem - MPSA13s.  They're Darlingtons.  No good here.
>>>>>Use MPSA18s.<<<<<
Or 2N5089 or PN100 or 2N3904 (where would we be without the good old 2N3904 ??)
If you are a keen recycler, you can make a bazz fuss with an MPSA13.

cheers

[analog kid]

NO MPSA-13's .... WHAT!!!!??'
You're saying that the RM Oct. DOESN'T Use these Darlingtons? We ARE STILL  talking about the rm octavia aren't we? because I know I myself got this thread confused with my Tyco threads concerning the version of "it" that I built that has an even worse misbias ,splatty sh$@ sounding problem.
EVERY schematic  , layout and even PICS from the insides of an actual RM have shown MPSA13 for Q2, 3 , and 4.   what gives?
I'll check my vltgs and post now too.

[analog kid]

Here's MINE!

battery: 8.29v  BEST I HAEV

Q1
e: 4.02 V
b: 2.71 V
c: 2.68 V  ( I've wondered if something's wrong between B and C here?)

Q2
c:  5.3V
b: 2.69V
e: 1.83V

Q3
c:0.68  V
b: 1.17 V
e:7.66  V

Q4
c: 8.33    "WARIO.." are you SURE that your vltgs are right here? How could Q4 collector be ZERO or less than Battery v. for that matter when it's directly at +9volts?!
b:  1.98 V
e: 3.1 V