Report on InkJet Rub-On Decal Transfers

Started by gaussmarkov, August 08, 2005, 01:12:45 PM

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gaussmarkov

here's a pic of a rub-on decal transfer (my first). i am not very experienced at finishing enclosures.  someone else will probably do better.  there are more picture links below.  i mentioned this rub-on stuff in another post.

my basic conclusions about these decals:
    (1) for inkjet, these give better resolution than water slide decals
    (2) decals stick completely on first contact--there is no room for adjusting position once they are placed, not even after an edge is down
    (3) air bubbles are a challenge
    (3) it's best to put them on a smooth surface, like a painted box
    (4) it may be that small decals (as opposed to a whole 1590b top) is the way to go[/list:u]

    so here's what i did.  i placed the decal on bare metal casually sanded with 400 silicon carbide, no preliminary clear coat.

    i printed a mirror image of my image, which covers the top of a sovtek 1590b clone.  i dabbed on tack/glue with a cosmetic sponge and let dry for 24 hours (8 recommended--i was busy :) ).  i cut out the decal with scissors.  a little care is required for this because the printed surface is sticky, but it wasn't difficult.  
here's a pic.

then i placeed the decal face down on the enclosure, pressed in place and removed paper backing.  also not difficult, but see comments below.

more details: i used an epson stylus photo 820 color inkjet printer, glossy paper setting (not premium glossy), photo setting (not high quality photo).  the image is much sharper than water slide decals that i have printed.

some more comments:  
    (1) do not let the printed ink touch anything coming right out of the printer--it will smear ;-) )
    (2) it's very easy to forget to print a mirror image
    (3) my printer munched one decal on a frankensheet where i taped the decal paper too close to the top of the page
    (4) there are no second chances when placing the decal on the enclosure.  it sticks.  you can see that the border on my attempt is off square.
    (5) you can see the trapped bubbles of air.  i tried (too late) to push some of the bubbles out to the edge--after lancing the bubles they appeared    more pronounced than they would have otherwise    because i stretched the decal slightly.
    (6) the tack applies smoothly and evenly.  i don't think this is a cause of bubbles.  i should have let the decal contact the surface more gradually, taking care to push out from the middle to the edges as i went.
    (7) the edge of decal is harder to see on the rub-on compared to a a water slide.  the rub-on decal is made of thinner stuff.  here's
a picture after spraying on a clear coat.
(8 ) because the image is under the decal once applied, it is protected
(9) the image is sharper on a rub-on decal than on a water slide.
(10) a smoother surface works better.  i practiced after this on a cd case and it worked very, very well.  my practice also used smaller decals.[/list:u]

bass_econo

During college briefly I worked with a friend on vinyl signs.  We used to use a spray bottle with a little Dawn dish soap in it to make it soapy.  This let us spray the surface down and  move the vinyl around for placement.  Also they make these small squegies (sp?) to smooth out the bubbles, although a credit card will work.  Or in the event that the bubble was too big to push out or the vinyl dried to fast, a small needle with take care of the bubble.

Could this same technique be used for these?

gaussmarkov

Quote from: bass_econoDuring college briefly I worked with a friend on vinyl signs.  We used to use a spray bottle with a little Dawn dish soap in it to make it soapy.  This let us spray the surface down and  move the vinyl around for placement.  Also they make these small squegies (sp?) to smooth out the bubbles, although a credit card will work.  Or in the event that the bubble was too big to push out or the vinyl dried to fast, a small needle with take care of the bubble.

Could this same technique be used for these?
hey, the soapy spray is a neat idea.  it won't work if the tack is water soluable.  that's the only thing standing between the ink on the transfer and the soapy water.  inkjet ink smears when it gets wet.  i am on the road, but i will give it a try when i get home next week.

and i think you are right about the bubbles and a small needle.  i made the mistake of trying to push out bubbles after the tack had grabbed the surface.  that pushing stretched the vinyl (or whatever the material is) so that after the bubble was popped the thing couldn't lie flat.  if i had been gentler, i think it would've been fine.

thanks for the suggestions!  i'll report again after i try them out.

brett

Brett Robinson
Let a hundred flowers bloom, let a hundred schools of thought contend. (Mao Zedong)

gez

Quote from: gaussmarkovhey, the soapy spray is a neat idea.  it won't work if the tack is water soluable.  that's the only thing standing between the ink on the transfer and the soapy water.  inkjet ink smears when it gets wet.

Inkjet fixative will help provide some protection against water.  You buy it by the can and spray on a coat or two.  Prevents fading and smudging too.
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter