Rodent LED always on Q?

[nightingale]

Hello,
The LED on my rodent clone from http://generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/rodentsc.gif
stays on all the time. It just gets a hair brighter when I switch it on.
I am not familiar with the millennium bypass on that switching.
any suggestions here?

[H S]

When it's in bypass, does the LED go out when you turn the volume down?

[H S]

Or is D3 in backwards?

[Bernardduur]

Mod the Millenium bypass to Millenium C bypass..... Never had problems with that one!

[rocker-D82]

I don't use Millenium of Rodent. I prefer a 3PDT, instead!

[Mike Burgundy]

The RAT/rodent bypass always is a little bit on. It's just one of those things with that circuit.
This might help: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm
FWIW the Millennium2 has always served me well, but 3PDT's are easiest, and always good.

[nightingale]

Thanks guys,
I tinkered around with the Millenium swiching, but I could not get it any better.

I have alot of 3PDT's right now, so I will go that route.

I always go back to the Rat.
It can do clean boost, treble boost, grindy OD, and my fave, loads of soft fuzz sustain!
Plus it really works well with a slide. anyone ever tried the rat/slide combo?
take it easiest,
ry

[Xlrator]

Mine was the same way, so I used a yellow LED. When dim it isn't as bright but when it's on you can really see it.

[R.G.]

The JFET you have in the board has a high Vgsoff value, so it doesn't get fully turned off. The sensitivity to particular JFETs is perhaps the only recurrent problem with the Millenium 1. It's why I came up with the Millenium 2 and C.

You can change for another JFET, or reduce R13's value from 22K to something smaller, or both. You can also increase the LED's effective forward voltage by putting an ordinary diode or two in series with it.

All of these will make the dim light dimmer, perhaps entirely off.