Spyder parts?

[Primus]

Found the transformers for the 8 leg on mouser but I can't find the DB01 full wave rectifier. Also, when I look for the 78l09 chip it looks like it's rated at 100 µa or around 20 ma. I have effects that pull down 200 ma... Can anyone who has built this bad boy help me nail down some part numbers?

[Dave_B]

Regarding regulators, if you need more than 100ma, you'll need to go up to the 1amp version. 

If you're using Mouser:
526-NTE1910 is the cheapest choice for the 1amp version in the standard T-220 package.
526-NTE1909 is the cheapest choice for the 100ma version in the standard T0-92 package.

[Primus]

Thanks for that! I was reading the datasheet on the NTE part and I read that it requires no external components.
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1900to1999/pdf/nte1910.pdf

Does that mean that compared to the RG Keen circuit, there don't need to be the two capacitors in the circuit as drawn with the other part (78L09) as shown?
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/Spyder/spyder5.gif

Incidentally, the 1A version is a little bit cheaper. I also wanted to mention that a 60 mA transformer is specified. Since many Boss effects draw 100-200 mA, I was thinking I would have to upgrade this as well. Can anyone comment on this? Maybe I should make a couple of high capacity "legs".

Last, can anyone recommend a replacement for the DB01? I have here a list of replacement NTE parts at 12V from .5 W to 5 W:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=*rectifier*%2b*12v*&Ne=500&terms=rectifier+12v&Ntt=*rectifier*%2b*12v*&Dk=1&Ns=SField&N=504&crc=false

Since W = A * V, I am inclined to say that A max is .2, V is 12 giving 2.4 watts which would require the $2.18 part. Am I overengineering this thing? I'm only a biologist, really.

John

[R.G.]

Thanks for that! I was reading the datasheet on the NTE part and I read that it requires no external components.
Does that mean that compared to the RG Keen circuit, there don't need to be the two capacitors in the circuit as drawn with the other part (78L09) as shown?

Whether NTE thinks it needs the two caps or not, the regulators do need to local decoupling. NTE seems to have failed to read the datasheets for the parts they sell. 

Incidentally, the 1A version is a little bit cheaper. 

Yes, it is. Higher volume, lower price.

I also wanted to mention that a 60 mA transformer is specified. Since many Boss effects draw 100-200 mA, I was thinking I would have to upgrade this as well. Can anyone comment on this? Maybe I should make a couple of high capacity "legs".

Good idea. Get one of the 300ma or 600ma versions of the transformer.

Last, can anyone recommend a replacement for the DB01? I have here a list of replacement NTE parts at 12V from .5 W to 5 W:

Mouser changes their part numbers as they change suppliers. It's almost made me never give a part number again, because I get questions from years-ago effects about Mouser part numbers not being listed.

621-DF01M is the current part number for the diode bridge. 511-L7809CV is the current part number for the ST version of the 7809 in a TO-220 package, up to 1A per regulator, $0.33 each. This is a 1A average DC part.

... I have here a list of replacement NTE parts at 12V from .5 W to 5 W: ... Am I overengineering this thing? I'm only a biologist, really.

One thing you learn from experience - you use an NTE replacement part only when you absolutely must. NTE parts are poorly specified, may not be the original part number they're replacing, and are overprices. If I had to get something working RIGHT NOW, I might use NTE. Otherwise, not.

We all start out inexperienced. It's good that you're asking questions - that's the way to learn.

[Primus]

RG,

Thanks a lot for helping w/ the part selection here. Hopefully this thread will help people get the parts they need for at least another six years. I'll try to do a build report after I get this guy going. Also, I am going to build it myself but have a friend of mine who is an EE check it over a couple of times  because I've never worked with mains and I'm not in the mood to kill myself yet. Safety first!

[Primus]

One last question: does anyone have a picture of their finished product? I was going to use a 3 prong to cable to a 3 prong case mounted socket. Then I would wire the conductors to the circuit, through a case mounted fuse holder and then the ground directly to the case. Is this correct? Of course, I won't plug it in until I get it checked but I want to get it mostly built before I take it to my friend. Also, what guage wire should I use?

[Primus]

Someone else reported 16 guage stranded. Also, I guess the fuse holder should break the "hot" line. Does anyone have any other tips for wiring AC?

[R.G.]

I was going to use a 3 prong to cable to a 3 prong case mounted socket. Then I would wire the conductors to the circuit, through a case mounted fuse holder and then the ground directly to the case. Is this correct?

Yes. The three prong IEC style AC inlet receptacle is a good way to go. Use a metal box to put it in. Use UL listed 600Vac wire. Make all connections to the line/hot terminal in black wire, all connections to the cold/neutral in white wire, and the one ground connection in green or green/yellow. The safety ground goes directly to the case. The secondary outputs are then not grounded to the case.

Of course, I won't plug it in until I get it checked but I want to get it mostly built before I take it to my friend.

Good! Play safely.

Also, what guage wire should I use? Someone else reported 16 guage stranded.

There is so little AC current that it's not a big concern. I wouldn't use less than 18 gauge stranded for AC wiring. That's good for about 6A. I doubt you'll get more than that.

Also, I guess the fuse holder should break the "hot" line. Does anyone have any other tips for wiring AC?

The hot/line/black wire goes from the IEC input receptacle to the fuse holder, and from there to the switch. The switch breaks at least the hot line, preferably both hot and neutral, but definitely hot. The neutral optionally goes to the switch, but can go directly to the load.

Ensure that the wiring is clean, neatly done, no stray strands. It's a good idea to cut tabs of heat shrink to slip over the finished connections and shrink.

Be sure to have someone check it over for safety for you.

[Primus]

The shrink wrap is a good tip. Safety is my primary concern here. Also, I am thinking of skipping the switch entirely because I can't think of a situation where I could reach under my pedal board and flip it.

[Primus]

Hey! Transformers are finally back in stock. This gives me 10 60 mA and two 300 mA at 9V. I have everything on my parts list now except for
1. Enclosure
2. AC power cord (I have one)
3. Shrink wrap
4. wire

I just wanted to run this parts list by people for two reasons: 1, I hope people can use it and 2 I hope someone will check it. If you have a mouser account, you can go here http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=cart._formBOM&; and do a bill of materials import

621-DF01M 12
511-L7809CV 12
41PG300 2
41PG006 10
75-515D106M016HW6A 12
75-516D227M016MM6A 12
693-6100.3100 1
504-GDC-1A 1
504-HTB-22M 1
502-41 12

A word about the switchcraft jacks. First, they are making a killing. Second, the product description says 1/4" diameter, but the data sheet for 502-41 says .141 in. (3.5 mm, which is what I want). Do you think maybe that's external diameter?

John

By the way, the total cost right now is $64.55. So if I sell my two DC bricks I will still make money!

[Dave_B]

I'm reading this past my bedtime, but that looks like a mistake in the description on the web site.  If you look at the Mouser catalog page, it also describes them as .141" (they're at the very bottom). 

[Primus]

Thanks. I feel like this should all be pretty set, but I'm not positive. Any other comments before I go ahead and order?

[Dave_B]

Just curious, what are you using the jacks for (1/4 or otherwise)?  Is it for the DC out?

[Primus]

Yeah, I wanted to use them for DC out because I have all the wires from my DC brick power supplies. But then... I will probably have to sell them with the power supplies themselves... So maybe I should see else I should buy to repalce them.