Paint that doesn't require baking

[giveitaway]

I was wondering what paints i should use for finishing my first pedal that doesn't require baking. I already searched and couldn't find anything but using enamel, and every time they mentioned enamel they talked about baking it. Do you need to bake when you use enamel? What are my other options? Thanks.

[blanik]

no you don't abolutly have to bake enamel, baking it makes the finish harder and less prone to scratching (it will chip instead :-) like on most market pedals...
what is important is a good cleaning of the box with lighter fluid to remove ALL grease from the box. (just touching the box with (even slightly) greasy fingers before you apply the enamel will result in a botch job) always wash your hands before moving the box... after a couple of layers of paint you let it dry for 48hrs, than you apply some clear (enamel clear), many layers so it looks like you melted a layer of glass on it :-) let dry for a couple of days than it should look ok... cars and guitars are painted with enamel and they don't bake those 


R

[The Tone God]

no you don't abolutly have to bake enamel, baking it makes the finish harder and less prone to scratching (it will chip instead :-) like on most market pedals...

True you don't have to bake the paint but it does not make a harder finish. It simply gets the finish to it's final hardness faster.

Andrew

[markm]

I don't bake my painted enclosures either.
I do occassionally use a heat gun to kind of take the place of baking or
an ordinary har dryer can work too.
Now that it's summertime, a few days outside in the sun can work wonders!
Nevertheless, I have found that about a week after you assemble your effect,
you'll probably have to re-tighten the hardware (switch, pots, jacks etc.) because
the paint has a tendency to shrink a bit.
    MarkM

[R.G.]

At the risk of complicating things - there is a one-part catalyzed urethane paint available through marine supply houses that cures by chemical action. It's brushable, not sprayable. If you put this stuff over a good primer, it cures to hard as nails, no baking.

It's expensive, about $30 a quart. But that's a lot of pedals.

[Mark Hammer]

Baking gets the stink out faster too.  Even if it did nothing to the durability or shine of the finish, it would be worth it to bake just for that.

You can often easily buy a toaster oven at a yard sale for less than the price of the to-be-painted chassis itself.

[Gilles C]

After MarkM asked about buying a cheap airbrush not long ago, I had more time to think about it, and I begin to think that a good alternative to spray cans would be a water based auto paint like the Auto Air line that I use now.

http://www.autoaircolors.com/

It seems to be very resistant on the first box that I painted with it, and I only had to use the hair dryer to heat set between the coats.

You need a more costly airbrush for special paint effects, but a $20.00 airbrush would suffice to only paint a box all black, or any color you like.

I will try that paint on my next box to see how it works out. The only detail is that it needs a clear to protect it in the end.  It leaves a grainier finish and it gives a good grip for the clear. That's how it's made.

Gilles

[KORGULL]

You could try lacquer: http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=159&frm_product_id=40&SBL=1