Wah Mod-Q Adjustment

[Noplasticrobots]

So I buffered my wah and I want to add the Q adjustment feature. I initially took out the 33k and replaced it with a 50k pot, one lug bridged to the wiper, and it didn't make a huge difference, but when it rolled down to the lower frequencies, it sort of "shut off" the wah (the pot made some noise) and just made it a bass heavy signal.

Then I read you're supposed to keep the 33k in place and put the pot in series with the inductor. So I added the 50 k pot in series and I got the same effect. I replaced the 33k with a 68k and added a 100k pot and not matter what, I still got the low end wah shut off. Where do I need to put my pot to get this to work?

[warioblast]

The 100k in series right after the inductor worked for me.
My wah is home made, built on strip board, so it was easy to mod it. If you have an original board, I think you need to cut the copper traces once, did you make a cut ?

[Noplasticrobots]

No I haven't touched that side of the board.

[warioblast]

No I haven't touched that side of the board.

Where did you solder the pot exactly ?

Here is what I would do on my old Dunlop GCB95 wah

[Noplasticrobots]

Oh! Man, I'm retarded. For some odd reason I was soldering the lugs to the ACTUAL resistor. What the hell am I thinking? IN SERIES doesn't mean on top of the 33k resistor.

But that cut....I haven't read anything about that anywhere. Everywhere says to just place a pot in series.

[warioblast]

I should have stop smoking weed earlier...
Forget everything I wrote in this topic. 



replace the jumper with a 1k pot.
if you are sceptical (what I'll understand regarding my previous posts in this topic  ) look at the crybaby and 535Q schematics. the 1k pot in series must be placed between the inductor and the connections to the 33k and 1k5 resistors and the 0.01uf cap.

[AC30Dirty]

Are you just running the wire on the top of the PCB and putting it through the hole on top?

[warioblast]

Are you just running the wire on the top of the PCB and putting it through the hole on top?

Which hole are you talking about ?   

remove the jumper (the resistor with one black stripe), and wire the 1k pot to the 2 holes left by the jumper removal.

[AC30Dirty]

Sorry about that.  :)I meant the holes where the components are connected. The blue wire on the previous picture gose from the 33K resistor, to the 1K5 resistor, then to the .01uf cap then to the spot with the resistor you remove Right? Then, the red wire form that spot to be parallel with the inductor? That what I get from the drawing. Also dont you mean a 100K pot?

[warioblast]

I'm sorry if I add confusion.
I should have mention that the red and blue lines are just underlined copper traces, not wires.
The pot is definitely 1K.

[AC30Dirty]

Hey Warioblast, I just tried the mod with the black wiring diagram you posted last , and it didnt work on my pedal.

[warioblast]

The board shown on the pic comes from my old Dunlop GCB-95. What wah do you have ?

[AC30Dirty]

Thanks Warioblast for all the direction even though it didn't work on my pedal. I have a crybaby REV. G layout. But, i went ahead and took out the 33K resistor and put a DP6T roatary switch with four useful Q resistors; a 100K, 68K, 56K, 47K, and a 33K. Now I know exactly where im at. It worked out GOOD. On top of that I put a rotary switch as well for the sweep cap selector mod (.01uf, .015, and .022), a 5K pot for the midrange and a 1K mini trim pot on the actual PCB for the gain mod which adds bass as well. I really like the way everything turned out. I'm pretty sure the Fulltone pot and Fulltone inductor in the pedal isn't hurting it either!

[warioblast]

No volume mod 

[AC30Dirty]

Yeah it has it!!!! I just found no need to tweak it with a pot. My Fulltone Fat Boost helps here!!!!!! 

[Noplasticrobots]

My board is super old and doesn't have the jumper on it, or any revision numbers for that matter (GCB 95).

I'll be watching this topic now, I forgot about it.