Tackling the Easy Vibe this weekend...a few questions.

[skiraly017]

I'm getting ready to build the Hollis Easy Vibe this weekend and have a few questions before I start. LED number 5 and 6...I'm assuming the positive lead of the LED goes into the square pad? I purchased a PCB from a fellow forum member who was kind enough to throw in four LED/LDR's which were glued together. One of those assemblies came apart. Do I need to re-glue it? Also, is there a correct orientation for LED's 1, 2, 3 and 4 or do they just get placed on the PCB any way? Any hints, tips, tricks or suggestions for a smooth build would also be appreciated. Thanks.

This is the layout I will be using.

[Big Red]

I'm going to build one as soon as my order gets in too, and I have the same question about the leds.

also, what is the best way to roll the led/photocell units? Fulltone say they use polished boxes over their photocells in their univibes, so would rolling mine in something like aluminum foil be beneficial? or what about something like construction paper to keep the light out?

sorry for thread stealing if I am doing so, 

[skiraly017]

Bump.

[R.G.]

LED number 5 and 6...I'm assuming the positive lead of the LED goes into the square pad?

Yes.

One of those assemblies came apart. Do I need to re-glue it?

Probably. They need to be held physically so the LED lights the LDR.

Also, is there a correct orientation for LED's 1, 2, 3 and 4 or do they just get placed on the PCB any way?

They are light emitting diodes - of course orientation matters. The correct orientation is for the positive/anode side to be to the right as shown on the layout page.

what is the best way to roll the led/photocell units?

I like enclosing them in a bit of heat shrink.

Fulltone say they use polished boxes over their photocells in their univibes, so would rolling mine in something like aluminum foil be beneficial?

That's a different setup. The Fulltone units use a light bulb, like the originals. In that case, a polished box helps to even out the light distribution on the photocells. In the Easyvibe, the LEDs and photocells face one another, so no mixing is needed. Aluminum foil is completely opaque, and makes a nice light shield, though.

or what about something like construction paper to keep the light out?

You definitely need something to keep light out of the LDR that's not from the LED. Black heat shrink does the mechanical and optical job at the same time. But you can glue or otherwise hold them together, and then wrap thick paper or aluminum foil around that. The foil is a shorting hazard, though.

If your box is opaque, you may not need anything. Just solder them in facing one another. Of course, the effect will not work when the box is open if you do this.

[skiraly017]

Much thanks!

[Big Red]

yeah, thanks RG

[Bucksears]

After a few trial & errors, this works the best for me:

To wrap my photocells/LEDs:
1) Squeeze needlenose pliers right where the 'legs' of the LED meet the LED itself, then bend the legs over at a 90deg angle, so it looks like the letter 'L'.  I do this so the lower part of the 'L' has just enough leg to have some space for the heat-shrink tubing to be shrunken over it, so it covers the back of the LED. The width of the tip of the needlenose pliers allows for the right amount of space near the LED.
2) Do the same thing for the photocell. When you have both done and facing each other (like they will be on the board), they should look like two upside-down 'L's.
3) Cut heat-shrink tubing to length, to cover the devices facing each other up to where the legs start to bend down. Place the heat-shrink tubing over the two, so they join properly inside the tube.
4) I take the extra lengths cut from soldered-in resistors (basically wire), fold them over and pinch them over the heat-shrink tubing closing it; I do this behind both the LED and behind the photocell.
5) Heat the resistor wire behind the photocell and resistor with a soldering iron. This applies heat to the wire, causing it to shrink in that one area, enclosing it around the device end.
6) After both are done (and cooled), clip both with wirecutters.
7) Solder them in place.

This worked best for me, YMMV.

- Buck