Pics of my new pedalboard (Cornish style)

mudmen · July 27, 2006, 11:57:00 AM

Can you send me this schematic ? You can find e-mail address in my in profile...

psst · August 08, 2006, 02:51:15 AM

Ok, here's the schematic.
If any of the moderators think it's not ok to put it here, remove the post, no problem.

mudmen · August 08, 2006, 09:27:38 AM

Big thanks for that !

Did you use GGG PCB or made a new one ?

mudmen · August 09, 2006, 08:01:52 AM

I compared this schematic with Tube Works 911 Classic and for me both units are identical...

Here's 911's schematic:

http://rapidshare.de/files/28755765/911.pdf.html

BTW, if you take a look at the TD PCB from David Gilmour's Cornish pedalboard you'll see RT-911 written on the top of the board. It looks like the new BK Butler Tuber Driver is a reissue of the 911 pedal...

http://www.petecornish.co.uk/Control-Panels-1.jpg

psst · August 09, 2006, 08:21:30 AM

You're totally right!
I didn't see that chematic before...
Yeah, I traced an original new-made Butler one, as you say, it has the RT-911 on it.

I guess it makes sense readind an interview with Butler. he said when he was fired from Chandler, he founded his own company, "Tube Works", and he released the 911. The Chandler re-issued the 4 buttoms but, as Butler says, with some errors.
Tube Works built three-buttons versions too.

I've tried a Chandler one and this Butler made that I bought from him few months ago, and for me this Butler is by far the best.

Remember to use all 4 pots logarithmics.

For the PCB I modified a PCB a guy in the forum posted, I can put it here too if you want.

psst · August 09, 2006, 08:27:09 AM

From the BK Butler interview:

"Actually the Chandler thing was a relatively minor incident in the overall history of my business activities. There's not enough room here to elaborate much, but the truth of the matter is that somehow Chandler decided at one point that they had been the designer of the product, came up with the TD trademark and that I was infringing on their IP. They obviously had somebody attempt to copy the electronics and the physical design of my TD, then produced and sold them. I don't know how many unauthorized units are out there. The mistakes inside are essentially within the EQ area and it would take too long to describe them. Also there is a basic ground loop mistake as well. The overall sound of the C copy is somewhat muted and not as clear on the upper harmonics, etc. Eric Johnson never used one of these copies as far as I know. All his pedals are ones I personally made. I never could understand why Chandler did that copy thing... They even challenged me in court and tried to convince the judge that Chandler was the actual owner of my design and the Tube Driver trademark. But the truth was obvious: In the end what was mine to begin with remains mine still... I then designed the black Real Tube pedal in 1986 which I still think is a superior pedal in some ways to the Tube Driver (ZZ Top's Billy Gibbons agrees) and then went on to design all my Tube Works SKUs: MosValve, Tube Works Real Tube rack products, combo amps and reverb... then the smaller 3 knob version of the Tube Driver was designed in an attempt to give an entry level price to tube lovers. Actually I never completely stopped making original Tube Driver pedals, but just didn't emphasize them so much during the early TW years. Later in about 1993 or 1994 I revived the pedal in earnest and named it after my 'love on 4 wheels', the model 911. It's ironic now that one of my current business collaborators has an esoteric speaker model called the 'Twin Towers' and I'm again making limited production runs of 911 pedals.... We were actually musing about that singular fact today on the phone of all things... "

mudmen · August 09, 2006, 08:31:06 AM

Yes, please !
Also, I know that Gilmour's Tube Drivers were modified by Pete Cornish...

psst · August 10, 2006, 03:21:42 AM

No, Gilmour's tube drivers are not modified.
Here you have the pcb

Use shielded cables for input-output.

bent · August 11, 2006, 04:00:42 AM

very nice and cool pedalboard....

btw, you said that the signal goes in 4 buffer..... i'm new to this, can you explain me what is a buffer and what does it do....in simple term, thank you very mutch....

bent

d95err · August 11, 2006, 07:39:12 AM

Quote from: bent on August 11, 2006, 04:00:42 AM
btw, you said that the signal goes in 4 buffer..... i'm new to this, can you explain me what is a buffer and what does it do....in simple term, thank you very mutch....

It's probably better to ask this question in a separate thread, so we don't stray too far from the discussion about the pedalboard. Before you do though, be sure to read about buffers on www.muzique.com, www.geofex.com. (HINT: Buffers are often mentioned in articles about "true bypass")

Arno van der Heijden · August 11, 2006, 08:45:58 AM

Quote from: mudmen on August 09, 2006, 08:01:52 AM
I compared this schematic with Tube Works 911 Classic and for me both units are identical...

Here's 911's schematic:

http://rapidshare.de/files/28755765/911.pdf.html

What about the opamp? The Butler schematic has 4558's, whereas the schematic by psst states that tl072's are used... Knowing that most of the distortion comes from overdriving the opamp, this seems to be an important factor as well.

Psst, did you try different opamps?

d@vide · August 11, 2006, 09:24:04 AM

hi psst
very good job!!
some questions...
for lighting the control cavity you use high luminosity led
but how you change the intensity ... a simple pot in series
or something more complex?
Have you idea what's the pourpose of a blue cap (ceramic) to ground here?
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/bv14.html and less visible here?
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/backpanelwire.html

jimmy54 · August 11, 2006, 02:36:42 PM

I'd be interested in an answer to this question too.

I'd guess that you'd use a resistor (say 4.7K to set the minimum resistance) in series with lug 1 of a 50k pot (this value could possibly be higher/lower??? - depends how low you want the LED's to be lit) then lugs 2&3 connected together going to the other side of the LED's. In this way the pot is just acting as a variable resistor and this would give you a resistance of 4.7K to 54.7K. Any clarification appreciated.

psst · August 11, 2006, 02:53:41 PM

Exactly, it's just a pot wired as a variable resistor. If I remember right, I put a 1k pot. It works like a breeze.
I don'nt know what's the purpose of those blue caps in cornish' pedalboard. It seems they connect the ground of the jacks to the chassis. I don't know why using a cap instead of a direct connection...

About the tube driver, mine came with a TL072, for sure. I didn't have time to experiment with different opamps, but I will for sure.

And the buffer is there to prevent signal loss in long cable, etc. Also, in my case it makes 4 copies of the signal. One go to the tuner, other one to a aux output (to feed my talk box) and another one to the pedal chain. The last on is unused for the moment. Anyway I have a toggle switch to disable the buffer if I want.

jimmy54 · August 11, 2006, 03:09:35 PM

What buffer did you go for psst and in what way did you get it to give four outputs?

Samy · August 11, 2006, 05:29:31 PM

Hello psst !
Where do you get that new TD Schem ? Is there any discussion going around this in some forum ?
Just one more question, in the GGG the HI and LO pots are linear, not log ... why is different on this new schem ? There are also some more differences ...
Thanks.

captntasty · August 11, 2006, 05:52:50 PM

I don't have anything to add in a technical sense but just wanted to say your board is "retarded" - in an ironic sense. Massively beautiful, inspired, kick-a**. I'll keep saying it - "Wow".

I have a black Real Tube and will have to investigate further. I've had this love/hate relationship with this pedal (what were they thinking with that big black plastic switch?). Psst, thats a great interview.

Again, your work is impressive - I wonder what PeteC. thinks?

mudmen · August 11, 2006, 06:10:06 PM

Full interview is here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jroscoe/bkbutler.html

Ardric · August 11, 2006, 06:21:23 PM

The Cornish board is using isolated jacks to prevent ground loops. Those capacitors could be between the jack gnd and chassis gnd for extra RF filtering, I suppose.

Or maybe they're not capacitors at all, but a MOV intended to protect the board from a dangerously high voltage potential on the cable to a guitar amp, like you might get with really bad house AC wiring. They make sure a fuse pops. It's the "surge suppressor" found in a lot of power bars.

I'd give each LED it's own current limiting resistor, and parallel all that to an isolated LM317-based variable PS dedicated to lighting. It's best for the LEDs, keeps most of the current out of the panel pot (and maybe goes full bright if the pot fails open), allows most of the dissipation to be heatsinked, doesn't load down any audio PS in any way, and ensures the LED supply isn't emiting any hum/buzz into the shielded interior.

Pete and Lynda do really nice work, don't they? My hereos.

Btw, regarding the Tube Driver schem: the old GGG schem and layout had serious power supply problems to my eye. This new one looks much better. I still haven't built one yet myself.

psst · August 12, 2006, 05:34:41 AM

I'm using AMZ's quad buffer.
About the TD schematic, I traced it myself. Yeah, both treble and bass pot are logs. It works perfectly this way.
Ardric, actually I already put limiting resistors for all and each LED like you say, when I posted the photos I had just "finished" the pedalboard but there where some momentary details to change, like that.

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Pics of my new pedalboard (Cornish style)