News:

SMF for DIYStompboxes.com!

Main Menu

A/B/A+B Switch

Started by Ivory Knight, August 11, 2006, 02:47:58 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

calpolyengineer

It is kinda hard to see, but there is a darker grey dot on the lower left corner of the IC in both layouts.

-Joe

Red Phoenix

yes....i see the grey dot

thank you very much....i think all my questions are answered. :D

mydementia

Anyone built the Flipflop AB Selector in this thread?

I'm wondering:
1) Does it 'pop' when switching?  No caps to load...I'm guessing no...
2) Is it succeptible to ground loop hum (like the rest of the AB-Y pedals I've built)?
3) What's the 'Bypass' switch doing?  If you have one input and two outputs, I assume 'Bypass' resets the chip to output 'A'?
4) Where's the Input?

I'm still dissatisfied with my active GGG AB-Y box and my Fulltone passive box - both seem to have ground problems.  This looks like a fun solution...and momentary switches are cheap!

Thanks in advance.
Mike

Seljer

The flipflop thing is only a controller, it doesn't do any actual switching. It only gives out 2 signals which are either "on" or "off" which you can do that use to control 2 of anything you want (relays, CMOS switches, that Boss JFET type switching system, doesn't even have to be for pedals, you can use it to control other stuff too), but with the ablity to instantly able to select any configuration of the 2 things you're switching (and since theres 4 possible states you've got 4 switches)

Pressing A turns only A on and B off
Pressing B turns only B on and A off
Pressing A+B turns both of them on
Pressing bypass turns both of them off

The threadstarter in this case wanted to have 2 bypassloops in series and the ability to quickly change between whats switched on and whats switched off.

1.) The popping can be there on prettymuch any switching method you do, though prettymuch all the methods of switching there are things you can do to minimize it
2.) If you're getting problems with ground loop hum with an A/B switch for amps you want an A/B switch with an isolation transformer for at least one of them (like the GGG one)
3 and 4.) look above

Red Phoenix

damn......i have another problem^^
i  have build all 3 boards.
i dont know how i have to solder the audio jacks.
i have these
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php?cPath=38_117&products_id=494&language=en
they have 4 solder terminals...
when i take a cable from the "OUT" of the bypassboard...where must it be sold on at the jack?

Seljer

For the jacks, looking at this picture here: http://www.musikding.de/images/loetbuchmono.jpg
looking at the jack on the left, the left 2 lugs don't matter, then with the ones on the right (where you can see the little metal tab thing is on top, it gets pushed out of the way when you insert an the cable), the front right one is connected to ground, the one at the back is the one where the wire with the signal goes.

you've basically got 2 of these boards: http://www2.arnes.si/~spribe/slike/cd4053bypass.gif
send and return are connected to the jacks for each effect loop
the main input jack goes to the IN of the first board
the OUT on the first board goes to the IN of the second board
the OUT on the second board one goes to the main output jack


I'm not 100% sure as I haven't built the bypassing board but I think you may need to put a capacitor between the send/returns on the board and the jacks. Something over 1uF (with an electrolytic you'd have the + side oriented towards the circuits and the - towards the jack)

Red Phoenix

yahu..i understand what you mean.
and it sounds good...

Red Phoenix

the footswitches have 3 contacts.....one in the middle (IN) and one on the left and one on the right (OUT A and B).
On the wiring diagram there is a dark red cable which connect the switches with each other. should i connt the red cable with the middle contact of the switch?
da the green and and the violett? do the go to the left or the right?

Seljer

Do you have a multimeter or any other means of checking continuity.
The 2 contacts you want are the ones that aren't connected when the switch is depressed (and when you press down on the switch they connect). Its the middle one and one of the ones on the side, I don't know which side, you have to check that out. Make sure its the same on all of the 4 switches.

Red Phoenix

#49
i have connect the red cable on the wiring diagram with evere left contact of everey switch.....the green and violett cable are solded at the middle contact of the switch...thats how  i have done

the looper is now complete but it doesn't work ;D

only the LED from loop B glows.....and it cannot be changed by pressing an other switch....there is also a big noise in the signal...but every jack is soled to ground and the dc-jack is soled to case (ground right?) too.
i thing something is wrong with the switches...but i dont knnow what

Seljer

the switching part should be able work on its own (visible on the status of the LEDs), even if the actual bypass part isn't working

Red Phoenix

#51
then something with the switching part is wrong, because the only one LED works


so..i have take a multimeter....and thats what i saw:
http://www.musikding.de/images/aSPDT.jpg
one cabel of the multimeter is at the middle..and the other on the right...power flows.
and when i push the switch...then the power flows trough the middle and the left.
so how must i connect the cables with the board?

Seljer

middle and left, so power is NOT flowing when you're not pressing on the switch

Red Phoenix

wahoooooo ;D

the switch is completed...and it works perfectly

thanl you very much.....your wiring diagram is brilliant :icon_exclaim: