2 unsuccessful builds with the same problems

Started by markymayhem, October 13, 2006, 09:27:55 PM

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markymayhem

I've built the muffer:  http://www.muzique.com/schem/muff.gif   
and the bazz fuss:   http://www.home-wrecker.com/bazz.html

and I'm having the same problem with each.  bypass works perfecly, but when I switch the effect on, it just seems to make the signal much quieter.  I started another topic on the muffer, and it continues with the bazz fuss here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50267.20
but the basics are this:  I didn;t use the exact components in the muffer, I did in the bazz.  the muffer was my first build, first perfboard layout, and my soldering wasn't great, I put the components to close together.  The bazz, I spaced everything WAY out, was super careful soldering, etc...  On both, I put a ground wire on the board that I tied every ground, on and off-board to.  I may be doing somthing wrong there.. Also I could have the pot wired in backwards... but I don't think so..  My voltages are correct on the muffer.. don't have refernce for the bazz fuss..  all part values are correct..

HELP!!!!!!!!!!

:'(

343 Salty Beans

I'd imagine it's just a simple wiring mistake. Try tracing your wiring with these offboard wiring options from tonepad.com:

http://tonepad.com/project.asp?id=35

Click the link under 'layouts' and then download the PDF file. There's several different ways to wire in this document; check your wiring against this. When I first started, I wired the 3PDT the wrong way. If you're only getting bypassed sound and no sound when the effect is on, there's a good chance it's just a matter of wiring.

tweaked

Post pics too - that would make it easiest for others to help

markymayhem

OK.. I am using the first wiring shcematic off the chart listed..  It appears I've gone it correctly, except for the grounds..  I'm not sure about them.  I am using a plastic chassis for the bazz and an old cuban cigar box for the muffer so I can't connect any grounds though the chassis...    Looking at the wiring chart.. I see no connections for a pot..  Here's a description of my offboard wiring of the muffer.. pics to follow.
ouput jack sleeve to a ground wire on the board, tip to sw1-#2.  input jack sleeve to ground wire on board. ring to batt -, tip to sw1-#5.  sw1-#1 to input cap, sw1#4 to middle of 100k pot. sw1-#3 & #6 connected together.  cennector #3 on the pot goes to ground wire on board, and #1 on the pot goes to output cap.  oh abd 9v+ to 9v+ on board..

markymayhem

I can't figger out how to post pics.. so I'm going to host them offsite for a while.. here's the links:

http://www.healthylifeandplanet.info/1.jpg
http://www.healthylifeandplanet.info/2.jpg
http://www.healthylifeandplanet.info/3.jpg

we've got one angle on the whole muffer,  a close up of the back of the board, and another angle on the whole box.

thanks!

petemoore

  "Debugging' Page is bound to produce some helpful content.
  I've had 'no signal' troubles that were...
  No power source connected..
  Volume pot or other pot [capable of shunting all signal to ground] turned all the way down.
 
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

markymayhem

I went through the debugging page and posted results for the muffer at the other thread.  Mabye I'm not being clear.  It's not that I'm getting no output when I switch the effect on.. It just makes my guitar very quiet, with no effect.  And i've moved the pot.

petemoore

I went through the debugging page and posted results for the muffer at the other thread.
  Maybe it will illicit responses there then.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Jay Doyle

See your other thread. I think your transistors are in there wrong. Check the pinouts.

petemoore

0.00 at all parts of the transistor @ 20v, .02 @ collector @ 2v
  I can't make out what is referenced by that...I just randomly chose voltages for this example:
  Battery or power source 9.2 vdc
  C 4.54v  [enter the voltage difference measured from ground to C here]
  B 2.15v  [enter your base voltage
  E 0.0v    [and emitter
  enter the battery V+ reference voltage, and each transistor pin voltage as measured with 1 DMM lead clipped to ground, the other lead to each pin as voltage measurements are noted.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

oldrocker

How's is your audio probe working?  When using a probe where is the input signal getting to or not getting to?

petemoore

http://www.muzique.com/schem/muff.gif
  0.00 at all parts of the transistor
  This could be that a ground or V+ connection isn't made, check with DMM beep mode that all three marked grounds, and both of the I/O jack sleeves have ground, as well as the battery -.
  the bottoms of both resistor leads [100k and 150ohm] are ground.
  V+ connects only to the top of the 10k resistor.
  Test continuity between battery clip button and V+ at the 10k there.
  Set DMM for 20k resistance, test that there is ~10k between the V+ and collector.
  Test the 150 ohm between Gnd and emitter with DMM @ 200ohm/2k range.
  You should see ~470k resistance between the B/C pins.
  And 100k between the base and Gnd.
  You can take the 10uf and diodes out and have an amp circuit - the Muff clipping diodes, as long as there are no stray connections [another thing to test for, but seeing no voltage on any transistor pins makes me think one of the PS connections isn't made]...
  Also...a great test almost anytime, exp. when just about to apply power FTFirst time, is test for NON continuity between battery clip +/-.
 
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

markymayhem

OK.. muffer voltages... I had another problem there, and you all are refrencing the first post of my voltages.  I''ll re-post the correct voltages on the muffer here.  Thanks for the tips, pete I will try all of them here in a few minutes.  As for my 'audio probe' I am using my finger while the effect is plugged in and switched on and listening for clicks at the amp...  Not the best method, I know.

E - .02v
B - .5V
C - 4.98V

Batt- 9.48V


markymayhem

OK.. new voltages for the muffer, as per pete's suggestions..
Battery - 9.72V
between v+ and the collector, I show -20ohms
E - .07v
B - .68v
C - 5.5v
I got a reading of 1.116 while set at  2k while testing the 150ohm resistor
-.676 @ 2m-ohms  between base and collector
-67.9 @ 200K-ohms on the 100k between base and ground
No continuity between battery clips..

markymayhem


petemoore

OK.. new voltages for the muffer, as per pete's suggestions..
Battery - 9.72V
between v+ and the collector, I show -20ohms
E - .07v  Looks about right for an emitter w/150ohms to ground.
B - .68v  Could use to be higher, almost .6v above emitter, not too bad?
C - 5.5v  Actually a workable number here, slightly high...
*I got a reading of 1.116 while set at  2k while testing the 150ohm resistor
-.676 @ 2m-ohms  between base and collector
-67.9 @ 200K-ohms on the 100k between base and ground
  * I'm having trouble interpreting this text...
No continuity between battery clips..
Always good...
  You DO have V+ from battery connecting to the 10k [not - battery pole ie reverse battery polarity]...your texts have alot of '-' ...example "Battery -9.72" written like this indicates negative polarity...the red lead of the Bclip goes to the 10k, black to ground..
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

markymayhem

OK
Battery = 9.72v
v+ to collector -20 ohms
1.116 @  2kohms on 150ohm resistor
-.676 @ 2m-ohms  between base and collector
-67.9 @ 200K-ohms on the 100k between base and ground

Those - actually indicate - polarity, and are not just confusing spacing  :icon_biggrin:

petemoore

OK
Battery = 9.72v
v+ to collector -20 ohms
This looks like a resistance reading taken betwen collector and V+ and should be 10k
1.116 @  2kohms on 150ohm resistor   [maybe meter reads funny, but close enough to be a 'small emitter resistor in any case I think.
-.676 @ 2m-ohms  between base and collector [this reading taken with the DMM set to 2 meg range, equating to 676k, 470k is what's marked on the schematic, but it's still a 'big resistor to bias the base with.
-67.9 @ 200K-ohms on the 100k between base and ground
  Is this one Brown Black Yellow? that reading = 67.9k...
  Could be the meter reads funny, but these readings look fairly workable.
  Resistance tests only tell what 'ThaT' resistor reads [and only as long as there is no alternate path for current to travel through the circuit instead of through the installed resistor]
  Those - actually indicate - polarity, and are not just confusing spacing...not sure what to make of this, resistance readings and resistors have no polarity.
  Red lead goes to V+, Black Lead to Gnd from Battery clip. NPN Neg gnd using NPN si transistor.
  Voltage measurements require a reference to be applicable, V+ 'is' what the battery reads under circuit load [connected to circuit], which'd ~be about the same as lone battery voltage [this circuit won't load a battery down much].
  Seems like it should be about working...audio probe tell any stories?
  Volume control...gotta turn that up too, I forget to do that sometimes, dial it toward the lug coming off the output cap.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

markymayhem

You know, I thought the - readings looked strange.  Mabye I am measuring wrong??

markymayhem

Thanks for your help everyone!  I bought the tweak-o kit from Small Bear.  I am hoping that upon building it I will discover my error with these designs.  Pics & Report (hopefully  :icon_mrgreen:) soon