What can I use to coat and protect the PCB underlying?(copper side)

Started by rogeryu_ph, November 17, 2006, 12:06:54 AM

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rogeryu_ph

Diy'er,
Hi. After finishing some stompbox project are we not concern about protecting the underlying of the PCB? Me, once I inspected one of the PCB project several months finished it seems Yak! ugly smudge and many spots built up. I'm curious that these may degrade the sound later. I remember always to clean up the copper side after successful built before putting it in the enclosure, but why or where does this come from? Now I wonder if I could use VARNISH to protect the PCB back is it ok? Original PCB have painted green or the back of the PCB is originally coated green? Anyone? Thanks   

alfafalfa


Thomas P.

I'm using this, too - but only in between drilling and finishing the circuit (which can take some time, sometimes ;))
http://www.crcind.com/csp/web/ProdDisp.csp?lng=3&country=ALL&product=FLUX%20SK%2010&brand=KOC

When the circuit is finished and working I clean the board and use this:
http://www.crcind.com/csp/web/ProdDisp.csp?lng=3&country=ALL&product=PLASTIK%2070&brand=KOC

The good thing about this one is that you can solder through it - if you don't mind a little smell
god said...
∇ ⋅ D = ρ
∇ x E = - ∂B/∂t
∇ ⋅ B = 0
∇ x H = ∂D/∂t + j
...and then there was light

Thomas P.

I forgot to mention an importand point about the "Flux SK10":

Make sure you drill the board first!!!
Because if you apply it and drill afterwards the epoxy-dust gets stuck in the area of the pads, due to the heat of drilling.
This makes it nearly impossible to get good soldering!
god said...
∇ ⋅ D = ρ
∇ x E = - ∂B/∂t
∇ ⋅ B = 0
∇ x H = ∂D/∂t + j
...and then there was light

shadowmaster

I'm not really keen on doing this on my fx projects but I did some cheap method of PCB coating on my school projects way back in college. Clear plastic varnish pwede na repapips! Like the ones being used on furnitures. Just etch your pcb layout design. Drill the holes. Paint it with plastic varnish. You don't even have to use a soldering paste to have a good solder on the electronic components. The plastic varnish coat will do the job.

rogeryu_ph

Alfafalfa, Tomboy and Shadowmaster,
Thanks. I really appreciate your immediate post and info. There only one thing... can I still apply vanish on the back of the already fiinished project? The whole back only... 
Alfafalfa, Have you tried already yout MXR with single coil?
Shadowmaster, Pinoy ka rin pala... nice to know.. from where... Me, Las Pinas near Southmall.....
Tomboy, Hi. what's your nationality? Also you Alfa? Me and Shadowmaster from Philippines.

Thanks DIY'ers

Paul Perry (Frostwave)

Quote from: rogeryu_ph on November 17, 2006, 08:32:39 PM
can I still apply vanish on the back of the already fiinished project? The whole back only... 

I think that any varnish you can paint onto metal, can be OK.
Because, that is all the PCB traces and solder are, metal.
Good to see Philippine DIYers.. I see a lot of CHIPS made there :icon_wink:

alfafalfa

QuoteTomboy, Hi. what's your nationality? Also you Alfa? Me and Shadowmaster from Philippines.

Well , I'm Dutch ( The Netherlands )  We now realise all too well that we're "the low lands" with all the global warming going on and our country being under sealevel for a big part.
I personally live 50 feet above sealevel !!

Alf

rogeryu_ph

Paul and Alf,
Thanks. Nice country Netherland, I always dream of wanted to visit Europe. How about you Paul? This is sort of time out to regain  stress after DIY..... And I'm glad and proud of you guys... I thought I was alone....  :icon_lol:

Thomas P.

Quote from: rogeryu_ph on November 17, 2006, 08:32:39 PM
Alfafalfa, Tomboy and Shadowmaster,
Thanks. I really appreciate your immediate post and info. There only one thing... can I still apply vanish on the back of the already fiinished project? The whole back only... 
Alfafalfa, Have you tried already yout MXR with single coil?
Shadowmaster, Pinoy ka rin pala... nice to know.. from where... Me, Las Pinas near Southmall.....
Tomboy, Hi. what's your nationality? Also you Alfa? Me and Shadowmaster from Philippines.

Thanks DIY'ers


Sure you can apply it on an already finished project! But you have to clean it first (as always!)!

As Paul said every varnish apropriate for metal can be used. The good thing about the one I revised in my earlier post (not the flux!) is that it dries in minutes! While ordinary varnish can take up to days to dry completely.

As for my nationality - I'm from germany. But here is a great place to experience that it doesn't matter where one is from!
Maybe you can visit europe one day - it's worth it...
god said...
∇ ⋅ D = ρ
∇ x E = - ∂B/∂t
∇ ⋅ B = 0
∇ x H = ∂D/∂t + j
...and then there was light

shadowmaster

Quote from: Paul Perry (Frostwave) on November 17, 2006, 10:08:03 PM
Quote from: rogeryu_ph on November 17, 2006, 08:32:39 PM
can I still apply vanish on the back of the already fiinished project? The whole back only... 

I think that any varnish you can paint onto metal, can be OK.
Because, that is all the PCB traces and solder are, metal.
Good to see Philippine DIYers.. I see a lot of CHIPS made there :icon_wink:

You can check out this link.
http://www.seipi.org.ph/members.htm

rogeryu_ph:
Taga-Makati ako. I saw your posts on the thread Pinoy DIY'ers (Philippines) that's why nalaman ko pinoy ka.

alfonso_pola

I dissolve colophony (rosin) in isopropilic alcohol or acetone, and then paint board. It works beautifully. The board gets a bright finish and it acts as flux, so solder spreads like wonders, but only over copper (it seems to avoid the plastic surface). Really recommended.

rogeryu_ph

Thanks Alfonso, This is sort of  rubber gum isn't it? I will get the MSDS on the internet. Hey guys, I can also paint the exposed lead of the vertical resistor and transistor?
Tomboy your right, this is a great place to experience that it doesn't matter where one if from... Thanks
Shadowmaster, I just now realized that Philippines has so many semiconductor CHIP manufacturer!!!! Why expensive  :icon_sad: