Early failure for super bright LED's?

[skiraly017]

I've had a few violet super bright LED's fail quickly as of late. They work fine for awhile then either wink out or flash on and off and then wink out. The connections are solid and the pedals function normally after they burn out. I'm using a 2.2k resistor for the current limiter (as I have all along with no issues). Could this just be a bad batch of LED's?

Guess that's what I get for buying from somewhere other than Small Bear. 

[markm]

Wow!
Guess you like 'em bright huh?
I think your putting too much current through them.
I usually go with a 4.7K when using regular old RED LEDs.

[ubersam]

Wow!
Guess you like 'em bright huh?
I think your putting too much current through them.
I usually go with a 4.7K when using regular old RED LEDs.

hmm... I have been using <1K with my ultra bright LEDs to run them at their "typical" (as per the datasheet) I_f and V_f..

[Gilles C]

I normally use 4.7K, and I even started to use 10K with the last ones that I bought...

Gilles

[Torchy]

Wow!
Guess you like 'em bright huh?
I think your putting too much current through them.
I usually go with a 4.7K when using regular old RED LEDs.

hmm... I have been using <1K with my ultra bright LEDs to run them at their "typical" (as per the datasheet) I_f and V_f..

You are running your LEDs at 20mA then ... your batteries last a long time ? 

[skiraly017]

The ones that have failed were all purchased from the same place at the same time. I've got pedals running the super brights and a 2.2k limiter that have worked for more than two years. I also just exchanged emails with Steve @ Small Bear who did say quality can vary not only from manufacturer to manufacuturer but also from batch to batch. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something incredibly obvious.

[mydementia]

I've been buying 'super bright' LED's from John (effectsconnection.com) and he packages 500k resistors with them...haven't had a problem yet...
For normal LED's (Red/Green) I use the standard 4.7k resistor...

By the way - all of John's super-bright LED's are the same price - 20-cents... even the blue ones...

Good luck.
Mike

[markm]

I don't know.
2.2K just seems kinda low to be running an LED.
Just an opinion though. 

[TELEFUNKON]

I managed to turn low current yellow LEDs into orange ones:

run them at 98mA instead of 2mA:

they`ll start bright yellow, grow into fat orange fastly,

and automatically shut off after 12 hours.

Insert new LED.

[Joep]

I have exactly the same are you (flashing etc.), probably to much current through the led, so increasing the current limiting resistor might be a solution. Mine died without trying....

Joep

[bluesdevil]

I'm actually up to using 15k for the current limiting resistor. Bright enough for me and it's gotta be saving some juice.

[MartyMart]

4k7 for "ordinary" red Boss type 3mm's
12k/15k or so with ultra brights, they are still SUPER bright and battery's last
forever ! ( almost )

MM

[ubersam]

Wow!
Guess you like 'em bright huh?
I think your putting too much current through them.
I usually go with a 4.7K when using regular old RED LEDs.

hmm... I have been using <1K with my ultra bright LEDs to run them at their "typical" (as per the datasheet) I_f and V_f..

You are running your LEDs at 20mA then ... your batteries last a long time ? 

Yup, I like 'em bright. No batteries in my builds, just wall warts, so no problem there... I just tell my buddies to make sure that they aren't staring at the LED when engaging the effect or else  "I'M BLINDDD!!!"

[markm]

 
If you line about five effects up with that type of brightness, it could double as a tanning bed! 

[ubersam]

hey... now theres an idea...  might not fly well with the Goth crowd though 

[R.G.]

Super brights are no more failure prone than other LEDs, given only that they are well made and run within their max specs.

It's not the series resistor, it's the current. Calculate the currents.

Some LEDs are rated for only 10ma. Some are rated for 20ma. Which are yours? What does the datasheet say?