Clearing Laser Decals?????

Started by ranchak, January 03, 2007, 05:16:54 PM

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ranchak

I tried to clear coat my laser decals with clear enamel..... I watched the decals shrivel and melt like the wicked witch in the Wizard of Oz. Apparently clear enamel is not compatible with decal paper. I really do not want to use lacquer, has anyone tried Minwax clear Polyurethane? I figured I would ask before I buy a can.

darron

I used automotive acrylic on some and it worked okay... Holds up really well too.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

theundeadelvis

I use a spray poly and it works great. It just barely dissolves the label which turns out nice because you can't see the edges at all.
If it ain't broke...   ...it will be soon.

ranchak

What brand of Polyurethane did you use?

Barcode80


theundeadelvis

I just looked at the can and I was wrong. It is actually Plasti-Kote super lacquer. Sorry for the mistake. This stuff works great for me.
If it ain't broke...   ...it will be soon.

BILLYL

When you spray the decal make sure you do it very lightly - Light coats .  Don't try and spray all at once.  And of course - always spray in a well vented area  and if you are spraying lacquer please wear a mask.............:icon_smile:

Hope that helps

Bill

darron

Quote from: BILLYL on January 04, 2007, 07:42:10 AM
When you spray the decal make sure you do it very lightly - Light coats .  Don't try and spray all at once.  And of course - always spray in a well vented area  and if you are spraying lacquer please wear a mask.............:icon_smile:

Hope that helps

Bill

doesn't spraying lightly create the orange peel effect? don't spray till it would run if it were on it's side of course. and spray it so it doesn't take too long to dry between coats, but there's no need to spray lightly i find because it's not like the toner is going to run like ink. full caots give a smoother surface, to a degree.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

SteveB

Darron is right.

Yes, if you spray quite a few light coats you will get a rougher finish. If you are worried about the toner, spray one light coat & let it dry 15-30 minutes. Then, at least one wet coat to smooth things out. Too many coats & you'll be left with a decal that is too thick.

Ink jet decals are more susceptible to solvents, & I sprayed wet coats of lacquer on them with no problems. so, laser toner should hold up as well or even better.

To smooth things out even further, apply several coats of clear to the whole box once the decals are applied.

For a good spray bomb clear coat try Krylon Crystal Clear. Great stuff!

Steve

GibsonGM

+1 Krylon Crystal Clear

I paint my enclosures, apply a nice coat of Krylon...print off my decal sheet, apply a light coat to that and let thoroughly dry.   
Next day I apply the decals, smoothing any bubbles, edges, etc.   About 8 hours later I then hit it lightly with the Krylon again.  Following day, 2 coats separated by 4 hours or so.  If any edges or corners have lifted a little, you can use a toothpick & a little of the Krylon underneath to stick them down before topcoating!  FWIW, I've never had a problem finishing things this way.  Only drawback is that the results aren't "deep and glossy" and furniture-looking, more like Crystal Clear  ;)   Who cares, I'm going to stomp on them, anyway, LOL.    From what I understand, you shouldn't mix oil-based and other based paints/laquers or they might melt each other...

   
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