Need help to find good quality tube sockets

[rantony]

Hi everybody,

Could someone tell me where I can purchase 12AX7 tube sockets that are identical or very similar to those that B.K. Butler uses to build his new Tube Driver pedals ?

In fact, I would like to get good quality tube sockets that:

1)  will resist to frequent tube changing;

2) have good base insulation;

3) can be soldered directly to the PCB;

4) are NON screwable to save as much space as possible.

Here is a picture showing the kind of tube sockets that I'm looking for:



All suggestions welcome. Thanks a lot. 

[MarcoMike]

I found this:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Micalex-Socket-Noval-PC-Mount-spread-leads-pr-18442.html#tabs
and they have some more.
(This is ok if you live in Europe, if you are from somewhere else on the planet, then I don't know)
bye

[sfx1999]

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

Vacuum tube accessories->Sockets->9-pin

Don't use the compactron one. You want 9-pin miniature, AKA noval.

[The Tone God]

I am not a fan of PCB tube sockets. I'm sure they look temping but I have seen many failures occur directly attributed to PCB mounted sockets. The tube heat generated travels to the board causing failures. Every time you move the tube, be it an intentional tube change or accidental hit, that force is transfered to the board. The vast majority of PCBs made are not intended for those stresses either from heat and/or force.

As for "will resist to frequent tube changing" adding to the above noted I find that is a major function of the tube sockets pin mechanism and the ability to be re-tensioned. Some sockets are just horrible to perform that task. IMHO you are not going to fulfil the outlined criteria you gave with PCB mounted tube socket.

My suggestion is use normal tube sockets, use metal threaded stand offs with one end being screwed through the board (or better yet the chassis) and the other end of the stand off to the socket. If possible mount the socket to the chassis. Then flywire your connections from the socket to the board. You life will be much better for it.

Andrew

[rantony]

Thanks for the replies. I think I will consider the following idea:



P.-S.: I live in Canada.

[The Tone God]

I think you will be happier with that.

Andrew

P.S. I live in Canada too.

[Paul Marossy]

I did something similar to that in my third Shaka Tube build - http://www.diyguitarist.com/DIYStompboxes/ST1590BB.htm 

[runmikeyrun]

P.S. My family will be living in canada soon.

[puretube]

Some people put a screw thru the centerhole to fix the (plastic or ceramic) socket to the PCB before soldering the pins...
(with epoxy PCBs you don`t even need a nut, when you tap a thread into it...).

These screw(-s) are an ideal support to fix the PCB (via a standoff) to the chassis,
while the force induced to the socket when changing tubes is directly being transferred to the chassis
instead of to the solder joints...

(only a drawback with microphony sensitive circuits...)


[edit:] oh, yes,:  put a tube into the (screwed-on) socket, before soldering the pins... 



For power tubes, I prefer chassis-mount, too.

[rantony]

Hey Paul, your site is fantastic ! 

[Paul Marossy]

Hey Paul, your site is fantastic ! 

Glad you like it. 

On the tube sockets, I would be more concerned about how the contacts inside hold up more than the PCB being damaged on a PCB mount tube socket.

[rantony]

Paul, which specific schematic did you use for your third Shaka Tube ? There are several versions in the 'Schematics' section of this website... Which one does your pedal correspond to ?

Thx

[Paul Marossy]

Paul, which specific schematic did you use for your third Shaka Tube ?

I used this one on all the ones I built: http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/schems/shakatube.gif