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RUBY AMP QUESTION

Started by hubble, July 25, 2007, 09:18:10 PM

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hubble

hi!

i finally debugged my ruby amp and got it working correctly, however i was wondering about the battery because i read that the input jack is used to switch on/off on the battery, however when i pull out my input the speaker still makes noise.  is this normal??  im building this for a friend and would like to prolong the batter life as long as possible, and ive read that most say theres no need to add a on/off switch but can anyont tell me how to use a mini dpdt toggle for a power switch?? 

the_random_hero

What sort of noise is the amp making? You might need to get a jack that automatically shorts out once then plug is disconnected. You can just use a SPST switch for the power, place it between +9v and where this connects to the circuit, or use it to break the ground connection to the negative terminal of the battery.
Completed Projects - Modded DS1, The Stiffy, Toaster Ruby, Octobooster Mk. II, Pedal Power Supply

GibsonGM

By rights, the jack should be a stereo jack, and it should switch it on/off for you.  Makes it simpler to use, fewer parts, and is the 'standard' for effects.

My guess is that you reversed the ring and sleeve...battery "-" should go to ring, and the other grounds go to sleeve. The shaft of your guitar cord connects the 2.   You could put a switch in, but if that aspect of the thing is messed up, why keep something that's screwed up in there?

You may hear a little hiss for a few seconds after you unplug as the capacitors discharge, sometimes this is taken for still being on.  But that should stop after a few seconds (?).
Try unplugging the plug from the jack, place your meter probe on the battery -, and check the opamp power pin (pin 6 on a LM386) for 9V.  You shouldn't read anything with the plug out.  If you do, your wiring there is screwy, and 99% likely it's at the jack. 
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CGDARK

You can use one side of the switch to do the power switching and the other half for LED on/off status. Just connect a wire from the +9V connection to the switch and another wire from the switch to the 100uF connection breaking the power path with the switch. For the LED, wire it as used in the true bypass configuration.

CG

SGdan

When i built mine i just used an SPST after the +9V to switch the power on/off.  I used a mono input jack if that helps. 

hubble

hmm, so i think i put the negative battery lead straight to the board ground.  thanks for your help!

GibsonGM

Sure, Hubble...an easy mistake to make!   :)
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MXR Dist +, TS9/808, Easyvibe, Big Muff Pi, Blues Breaker, Guv'nor.  MOSFace, MOS Boost,  BJT boosts - LPB-2, buffers, Phuncgnosis, FF, Orange Sunshine & others, Bazz Fuss, Tonemender, Little Gem, Orange Squeezer, Ruby Tuby, filters, octaves, trems...