Tracing the loss of power?

[avtoys]

Apologies if this is not the correct section of the forum. I have a Tr-606 that doesn't want to turn on. I would like to solve the problem myself but I am new to electronics. I have a multi-meter, soldering gun and other various pliers, tweezers etc. I opened the Tr-606, i have the batteries in there and I connected the neg.  lead from the meter to the neg. leg of the battery terminal connects w/ the pcb. How do i find out what resistor, capacitor, diode, switch, etc. is faulty? I've scoured the net for answers to this and it seems like you guys here have the most knowledge of electronics. Please help.

[petemoore]

Apologies if this is not the correct section of the forum.
  the Right place
  I have a Tr-606 that doesn't want to turn on.
  TR-606 doesn't ring a bell, sounds like it might be a TS derivitave circuit? What does it do when it was doing something?
  I would like to solve the problem myself but I am new to electronics.
  Not as new as you were yesterday, new enough to where you have to become less new to solve it.
  I have a multi-meter, soldering gun and other various pliers, tweezers etc.
  Might be all you need...that and some wire should be able to get you through a debug, at least the initial tests.
  I opened the Tr-606, i have the batteries in there and I connected the neg.
  lead from the meter to the neg. leg of the battery terminal connects w/ the pcb. How do i find out what resistor, capacitor, diode, switch, etc. is faulty?
  Read the debugging thread [look near top of forum threads] 
  I've scoured the net for answers to this and it seems like you guys here have the most knowledge of electronics. Please help. We say thank you !
  To debug, reading the FAQ to help understand 'Debugging, what to do when it doesn't work', fixing the problem only takes a couple of minutes [usually] or a trip to the part bin or store, finding the problem is much less finite timewise. The quickest way is to apply the DMM to the circuit board testing in some 'order' like...test for:
  Things that cover alot of ground [like power supply connections, which can generally be done right at the active component legs, measureing the voltage difference to ground = reference voltage, if the chip has power and is within it's bias parameters [sometimes circuits go outside normal operational bias parameters], if all the active pins are biased, power supply seems to be connected correctly, you can move on to.
  Testing resistances, note that 'off' readings may be found because an alternate path through the circuit is adding to the current flow you are reading across a resistor [pull it from the circuit or do 'ballpark math on it], generally the color codes are always correct, hard to read..
  Other times there may be something on the board which conducts, or somehow a non connection became a connection [these can be hard to pinpoint with the DMM, try a close-in, high intensity lamp and a magnifying glass].
  non connections are fairly common, usually something like a wire loose or a switch or pot gave up.
  BTW, if it has Jfet bypass switching, you might trace the wires from the momentary stomp switch to test it.
  continueing connections to the furthest point of a node lets you say test a connection>wire>connectiont to board>resistor>connection to trace>wire>connection>Gnd. all in one quick test, look for 'distant point' places to apply the probe when testing resistors or connections.
  Actives bias, see GEO, links, etc. [set aside time to do the reading] for info on the components you are testing, this will give you/us something to compare the voltage readings to. Perhaps find something tuff there and print it, then find supportive texts [like wikipedia for definitions and descriptions etc.] to help with comprehension, ask questions yes, but all is there to read, you'll have to do sorting...I used to fill up my favorites with links to explanation sites, [then start deleteing when 2 pages full] just got a new computer, some reads I have to go back to many times, some I have yet to comprehend, some only need read once.
  Caps block DC, 'X' value will attenuate lower frequencies, this can be used to shape high and low frequency response [as well as midrange control] and is used to keep DC within the active circuit.
  Resistors just resist. Kind of like a certain sized opening at the bottom of a 1/2 full [lower voltage] or full [higher voltage] glass of water...the bigger the opening, the more current is let through [depending on voltage supply]..ie less resistance. Potentiometers are just variable resistors, [like a water valve] er..two VR's coupled..see 'secret life of pots' GEO.
  Watch the polarity !
  Power supply, active, some capacitors, diodes...make certain that every marking registers and that polarity is followed. 
 
 

[John Lyons]

Usually the diode connected to the battery or DC jack fails if someone used the wrong power supply or mis connected the battery.
See if you can hunt down a schematic and make sure you can read +9v on both sides of the diode/ if not then the diode is bad and you have an easy fix. If it's not that then you need to follow the path of the 9v and determine where it stops.

John

[GREEN FUZ]

TR-606 is a Roland drum machine. Bit more complex than your average effects pedal but good luck sorting it out.

Schematic here if you`re interested.

http://machines.hyperreal.org/manufacturers/Roland/TR-606/schematics/roland.TR-606.schem-6.gif

[avtoys]

yes the tr-606 is an analog drum machine from the 80's made by roland. i think i got some good starting reference points from you guys and i'll go from there. i'll report back tomorrow since i only have internet at work.