Phaseur Fleur build w/ pancake wicked switch and Aux LFO (PICS)

[Michael Allen]

My first build of the Phaseur Fleur was nice for awhile and then just kind of fell apart. It started sounding like crap and I wanted to redo it and make a cleaner overall build. This week since I'm on spring break I did just that. From the wiring guide on the commonsound website for the new phaseur fleur layout I put together a double sided PCB layout in Eagle and gave my first attempt at a double sided PCB. It worked out perfectly!

I followed the general advice of drilling holes through the layouts and then through the PCB and using pins to line up the transfers before ironing. I ironed a little bit of both sides so they were attached to the board in the correct spot and then removed the pins. I used photo paper with a laser printer PCB design as I usually do, and ironed both sides one at a time following my usual method on each side. I did it just as though I were doing two separate PCBs, ironing one at a time and it worked out perfect. Each design transferred cleanly and evenly and there were no problems with remelting and what not... Pretty easy method to crank out a double sided board.

I made the layouts with a ground pour and set the isolation a little too close on the top side so it was tricky at times not soldering pads to the ground plane. It worked out well though, etched in about a minute and looks pretty sweet I think! All the components are mounted from the top side and pads that connect on both top and bottom sides were soldered on each side. No through hole plating here...

I used RG's pancake switch idea (I've messed with them before but never really ironed out the kinks) and Tone God's wicked switches. I took a piece of previously used PCB stock (still had solid copper on the bottom side) and scratched a cross in it to divide it in four corners. Mounted a momentary tack switch on one split halve and the LED on the other split halve. Connected wires at each corner and then contact cemented a piece of plexiglass spacer with holes drilled to allow the tact switch and wires to pass through. Then I attached a piece of mouse pad to the bottom of the spacer. This whole thing is mounted to the box with screws. There is a hole big enough for the screw head to recess in the PCB and the spacer has a hole just big enough for the screw shaft.

For the actual circuit, I added the auxiliary LFO that adds to the main LFO on a piece of perf. I like it, it adds a whole other dimension. The sound of the circuit is fairly subtle. I like it next to my Ross clone because the Ross is very noticeable and the Fleur is more subtle. The second LFO really makes it stand out too.

You can't really make it out but there is a Red LED in the switch that shows when the pedal is on.








Just thought I'd share!
Michael

[Pushtone]

Excellent work!

First time I've seen a photo of the pancake switch in action.

Just why did you need the double sided board?

Dave

[Michael Allen]

Well, the commonsound PCB is double sided and I wanted to copy it.