More paint questions....

Started by ACS, June 05, 2008, 09:53:05 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ACS

There have abeen a few of these recently...  But this one is a little different.

I recently stumbled on to a very cool technique to create an effective crystal effect paint.  It works extremely well with $3 rattle cans, but I'm having issues with the clearcoat... Basically, when I put the clearcoat on, no matter how dry the paint is, it seems to 'dissolve' the crystal effect a moderate amount, dramatically reducing the impact of the finish. 

Any ideas?

I'm using two different colours for the effect - they are enamels of the toluene-free variety.  Clearcoat is also enamel, but smells a little different to the others, so may be a different solvent.  Is this likely to be the issue?  I'm on a seriously tight budget, so if there's any suggestions that don't involve buying different spray cans and trying to find one that works, I'd be eternally grateful!

Cheers
Aidan

joegagan

i used to hear of a technique from my old hot rodding mags, the guys would ' flash' the clearcoats in a very fine mist to prevent any solvent interaction with the colorcoat. repeated light mistings( with dry time n between) eventually put a seal on the colorcoat.

this was done with true lacquer clearcoats.
my life is a tribute to the the great men and women who held this country together when the world was in trouble. my debt cannot be repaid, but i will do my best.

Dragonfly

Quote from: joegagan on June 05, 2008, 09:57:24 PM
i used to hear of a technique from my old hot rodding mags, the guys would ' flash' the clearcoats in a very fine mist to prevent any solvent interaction with the colorcoat. repeated light mistings( with dry time n between) eventually put a seal on the colorcoat.

this was done with true lacquer clearcoats.

I "flash" coat everything I paint...it helps seal things nicely.

Another tip.... warm the paint can up in hot water before spraying.

ACS

Thanks guys, that sounds like some excellent advice.  Will give that a crack and let you know how I get on...


GibsonGM

As a painter, I can say that it's really tough to avoid issues when using unlike-based products.  If you can, micro-sand the surface before clearcoating (0000 steel wool, maybe?). Hopefully that won't kill the effect you want.  This seems to be a case of the clear melting the water-based product underneath.   I like the idea of the flash coat...2 quick flashes with dry time in between will seal it all up (if it doesn't cause damage first), then you can go for the gusto with 'real' coats....like when doing a house, you'll have to experiment! 
If in doubt, grab a can of water-based clear coat and try that.
  • SUPPORTER
MXR Dist +, TS9/808, Easyvibe, Big Muff Pi, Blues Breaker, Guv'nor.  MOSFace, MOS Boost,  BJT boosts - LPB-2, buffers, Phuncgnosis, FF, Orange Sunshine & others, Bazz Fuss, Tonemender, Little Gem, Orange Squeezer, Ruby Tuby, filters, octaves, trems...

cpnyc23

when you say 'flash' coats, do you mean just a quick light mist so that a bit falls on the enclosure?

-chris
"I've traveled the world and never seen a statue of a critic."    -  Leonard Bernstein

joegagan

my life is a tribute to the the great men and women who held this country together when the world was in trouble. my debt cannot be repaid, but i will do my best.

cpnyc23

thanks!  I can see how it would really help and I think it would also help me slow down the whole painting process.  I need to just tell myself it will take 2 weeks from priming until the clear has curred and it is ready to go.

-chris
"I've traveled the world and never seen a statue of a critic."    -  Leonard Bernstein

GibsonGM

Probably! ha ha.   But a flash coat will dry in about 20 minutes...do that a couple of times, then actually "coat" the thing about 24 hrs. later and you should be in biz...
  • SUPPORTER
MXR Dist +, TS9/808, Easyvibe, Big Muff Pi, Blues Breaker, Guv'nor.  MOSFace, MOS Boost,  BJT boosts - LPB-2, buffers, Phuncgnosis, FF, Orange Sunshine & others, Bazz Fuss, Tonemender, Little Gem, Orange Squeezer, Ruby Tuby, filters, octaves, trems...

cpnyc23

Apparently climate change has, along with threatening various lifeforms on Earth, made my pedal curing process take much longer than it used to...  This "spring" in NYC has been a humid one and the clear coat I use (Krylon) now takes about a week to cure to a point where I feel comfortable treating the pedal like, well, a guitar pedal.

I'm hoping that by flashing the clear a few times I can separate the paint layer and the final, thicker outer clear coats.

Thanks for the tip!

-chris
"I've traveled the world and never seen a statue of a critic."    -  Leonard Bernstein

ACS

Thanks for all the help and advice dudes.  Flashing first with the clear coat worked nicely :)


raycroft

nice paint job!  I'm probably going to have to steal it- sorrry.  I was wondering if you painter guys have done the toaster -oven curing thing- yknow, baking it on 150 for 30 minutes, or until dry?  it really speeds things up; although I've only done 1 pedal , and I had the same issue w/ the clearcoat.  I was all excited about the finish till I sprayed the clear on, and it looks like orange peel.  I definatley didn't flash coat it, though; never heard of it.  I'll sure try it on the next one.
Master Learner

chi_boy

Quote from: ACS on June 11, 2008, 06:51:47 AM
Thanks for all the help and advice dudes.  Flashing first with the clear coat worked nicely :)



Nice finish!  Care to share how it's done?
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

The Leftover PCB Page

Dragonfly


ACS

Posted this up in the Pictures thread as well - have a got a basic description of how it's done up there.  I've seen this in the hands of someone who 'kwnows what he's doing' (unlike me!) and the effect was far better than this - much more '3D'.  I'm going to keep playing with this and see what else I can come up with!

Aidan