Which Markers for stompbox lettering? Metallics...

[rothnroll]

Which markers would you guys suggest to buy that i can use to apply on an already painted boxes?
I want silver metallic and maybe some blues. I have seen some here that look like someone did it using some sort of paint pen.

I like the hand drawn stuff and cant stand waterslides..

I plan on aplying another layer of clear over the pedal when i am done.

[rothnroll]

bump!!!

[RickL]

I've had fairly good success using gel pens, but they absolutely must be clear coated. You might have to experiment a bit. If you put the clear on too wet at first it can disolve some of the pen ink.

These were all lettered with gel pens.

http://www3.telus.net/pedals/MostlyPedals%20014.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/pedals/MostlyPedals%20015.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/pedals/MostlyPedals%20024.jpg

[joegagan]

even with a clear coat, they can rub off pretty fast. i prefer to engrave the metal first with a #105 dremel engrqaving point in a good dremel.

yes it is a lot of work, but the engraving ( with or without the marker paint) will still be there 100 years from now if the box still exists.
these are progress shots, the engraving needs touch up before i put sharpie in the letters. i also  bought some clear coat that goes on real thick , then you bake it in oven to make it super hard. in previous experiments, i couldn't chip it with light blows from a hammer! the product is 'translucent liquid sculpey', got it at micheal's craft store.





in the top photo you can see the masking tape that i hand drew the lettering on first. i just follow old sign painter rules for layout. i was a pro sign painter in the early 80s.

[joegagan]

you can also use printed fonts on paper, just make sure to glue it nicely to the top ( elmers thinned with a little water works well)

just use two hands to steady the engraver, practice makes it better. just engrave right through the paper as a guide. only engrave lightly on the first pass, then remove the paper or tape for touch up.

all you are trying to get from the first pass is a good layout, the fleshing out of the letters is much better without the fuzzy paper/tape edges in the way.

[railhead]

i also  bought some clear coat that goes on real thick , then you bake it in oven to make it super hard. in previous experiments, i couldn't chip it with light blows from a hammer! the product is 'translucent liquid sculpey', got it at micheal's craft store.
in the top photo you can see the masking tape that i hand drew the lettering on first. i just follow old sign painter rules for layout. i was a pro sign painter in the early 80s.

This stuff? http://www.sculpey.com/Products/products_access_tls.htm

Wow, that works as a clearcoat? How hot/long did you bake the shell? Have you used this clear over paint (enamel, acrylic, etc.)?

[rothnroll]

even with a clear coat, they can rub off pretty fast. i prefer to engrave the metal first with a #105 dremel engrqaving point in a good dremel.

yes it is a lot of work, but the engraving ( with or without the marker paint) will still be there 100 years from now if the box still exists.
these are progress shots, the engraving needs touch up before i put sharpie in the letters. i also  bought some clear coat that goes on real thick , then you bake it in oven to make it super hard. in previous experiments, i couldn't chip it with light blows from a hammer! the product is 'translucent liquid sculpey', got it at micheal's craft store.





in the top photo you can see the masking tape that i hand drew the lettering on first. i just follow old sign painter rules for layout. i was a pro sign painter in the early 80s.

SO can we see a finished product?
That looks cool!

[joegagan]

sure! i will post the finished product. i am doing a tutorial on the whole process, maybe i can inspire a few people to become engravers!

some of you might remember my modded fuzzfaces, the painted areas would always get etched first so the paint would hold.

adds a lot of extra time but is very important in my opinion.

railihead, that is exactly the product i was talking about. it says not to exceed 300 degrees, but it goes more translucent if baked at over 250.
the experiment i did was a paper logo over a powdercoated enclosure. the clear was partly on the paper, partly on the powdercoat.

it baked to about 1/8" thick (possibly a little thicker),  makes for a really nice 3D effect.

you would be amazed at how hard it was when dry, like ceramic but not as brittle. i could not make it chip no matter what i hit or scratched it with

one thing i haven't tested yet, is the interactivity with the sharpie. should be good tho, i will let you guys know.

hey, maybe i shouldn't be giving away all my secrets!

oh wait, maybe you can light up a thick logo with LED under and sculpey clear over top. woah!

[soulsonic]

I've found that the Sakura brand paint markers are superior most others.
Japanese art supplies rule!

Has anyone else here tried rubber stamps? I got a bunch recently and have been getting very good results; especially with the Staze-On brand ink pads.

[davent]

The site railhead linked to above has a great tutorial on using this Sculpey stuff, the possibilties are pretty staggering for creating unique pieces

http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey201.asp