Dual Inductor wah mod help

[kierc]

Hey everyone,

Have a spare red fasel inductor, and I was wondering if I could somehow mount the red fasel on some perfboard or something and add a toggle switch to the chassis (hopefully in the DC jack hole?) that could switch between the two inductors, or even run both together or just the whipple?

I think it's possible, I've done some searching on here and google but can't anything definitive about how...could anyone help me with this?

Also, now I've played the wah some, i'm starting to feel that there isn't enough clarity or low end when the heel is down, and when the toe is down it can be a bit harsh, but the actual "wah" seems really fun!
I'm pretty sure theres mods out there for this, but most of the ones i've seen have trim pots?  Is there anything I can do with my board (fuzz central mccoy w/ stock values) to adjust this?

Really appreciated!

Kier.

[aron]

You should be able to do this. I think a SPDT should work. It would just switch between the inductors.

[Hanglow]

If you look at the general guitar gadgets drop in wah boards they have this on one of them

[John Lyons]

The "sweep cap" is probably something you should fool with.
Go to the GEOFEX link above and look for the what affects what wah article.

You can also adjust the pot so that is doesn't go al the way to the end of the pot's travel
which will less bright. This will make the heel down more dull....Try that sweep cap....

john

[kierc]

With a SPDT switch, would it be switching between the whipple in one position, and the whipple and fasel in series() in the other position?

Now then, sorry for my complete nonsense talking, but would that work like this :

So the middle lug on the switch will be to the first trace on the pcb, with left lug going to the 1st lug on the whipple and the 2nd whipple lug to the second trace on the pcb...
that should be the whipple working in one position?
then... the right lug on the switch going to 1st lug on the fasel, and the 2nd fasel lug to the second trace on the pcb?

actually... that would be just switching between the two inductors right? 

I heard somewhere that it sounds pretty good with the 2 in series (one to the other?), i'm pretty sure i could figure out this (if my above method is in fact correct), but would this be safe to try out/worth while?

---

Would the sweep cap be the 100k (not the one in front of the inductor)? What should I try changing this to?

Also, on the GEOFEX article, it states that making the "Cin" cap bigger "can allow more lows in and add fatness. If you want this, change it to about 0.1uF to 0.22uF."
would this be the 0.01uF styroflex cap from the input?

Would this be worth experimenting with?


Looking at all these values and effects is just making me want to experiment with everything! 


Kier.

Edit : Thanks for moving the thread Aron, wasn't sure where to put it.

[John Lyons]

The sweep cap is the .01 cap (Cf in the GEO article)
Try changing that up or down.
Look at the GGG modable wah project to get some ideas

Cin is the input cap.
Also look up the wah comparison chart under Tcobretti in the gallery.

John

[tcobretti]

My ears were burning.

I wired up two inductors using a dpdt switch.  I put one inductor on one side of the switch, one on the other, then connected the two wires from the board to the center poles.  This allows you to switch back and forth.

You can put a trimpot on the emitter resistor of Q1 and tune the bassiness out.  We can't give you a 'correct' value because it changes based on the inductor.  The best thing is to pull the Re1 resistor, solder the center and one of the other legs of a 1k trimpot in the holes, and voila, you have a variable resistor to tune the wah with.  The other resistor you should do this with is the 1.5k feedback resistor (I used a 5k trimpot).  If you replace these two resistors with trimpots you can get the most out of any inductor.

Here's the chart:

[Hanglow]

I put the sweep cap on a rotary switch ala geofex. from memory, 4n7, 6n8, 10n (stock), 22n (hendrix reissue wah value i think), 33n, 47n. Gives a big range, although I still prefer the 10n overall. I think I might narrow the range knock the first and last two off and include an 8n and a 15 n instead

Also, I put a 500k pot in place of Re1, useful for volume/gain boost.

I also put a pot and resistor in for Rq , gives a range bettween 20k and 120k . I thought this would make a lot of difference, but it is very subtle. Can't see where I have gone wrong though  if at all.



here are the links to the ggg modable wah, give you some ideas for wiring up the two inductors. Looks pretty straighforward.
rotary switch two toggle one toggle

[kierc]

Cheers for all the info so far 

I went to Maplin today and got a 2PDT (hopefully! their labels are rubbish!), and wired it up with a method I thought up and doodled down last night,
hopefully if my wiring was right, one position is just the Whipple, and I wired the other position to go to the Fasel and then to the Whipple in series.

I also had a go at re-soldering some of the connections to try and sort out some humming I had while I was at it, then put it all back in the chassis,
Well its quite late here so I couldn't really try it out loudly, and only through a tiny amp just to make sure it still wahs, and it does!
It pop's when switching the toggle, but I don't mind as im a hobby player only, but both options wah for sure, will try it out more tomorrow 

Just one thing... which toggle position connects what lug? say if your looking at it from the side.. if the toggle were to the right, which outside lug would be connected?


Will have a look into the rotary switch for the sweep cap, what type of caps did you use? the polystryene/stryoflex caps are pretty big to have that many in!

[Hanglow]

 I used the box ones, a cheapo greenie and the original one (the bigger silver one). The WIMA ones are the smallest I think.

you can get the dual pole 6 throw rotary from maplin.