Debugging a modded Torchy vero ts808

[vmazz38]

I am in the process of figuring out all the possible issues im confronting with this my first vero build. I used the Torchy ts808 vero layout which someone nicely emaiiled me. I substituted some parts ala ggg suggested keeley mods. Initial test had the bypass functioning..passing a clean signal..but the effect engaged was just hiss and crackle. My ic shows voltage wtihin the normal range but both q1 and q2 are around 8-9 volts at c b and e. I also am trying to use a dpdt switch in place of a 3pdt which is on its way. I know there is a lot of things I could be doing wrong but I was hoping anyone who has tried this build ..specifically the vero layout could tell me any additional things to check for.
Thanks Val
ps if I can figure out how to post the layout here I will asap

[vmazz38]

Im getting some very interesting oscillation noises out of it now with the tone control changing the frequency..but still not doing the overdrive at all.

[Toney]

Wiring/solder bridges/electro orientation/component value errors are the most common mishaps.

Hmmm modified eh?
I would probably suggest to get it running stock first.

[vmazz38]

I mean modified in just subing a few parts that others seem to like..compared to stock ts values..Im double checking all the things you listed..I do wonder about the transistors ..generally it calls for 2n3904, im using 2n2222 , I thought theyd be comparable. Thanks for the input.

[Toney]

both q1 and q2 are around 8-9 volts at c b and e.

Solder bridges... oh and the all time favorite ... pinouts!
  Check the data sheet of the specific devices.

You've done a standard continuity test between lines for the Vero right?
Micro splashes of solder can easily mess up your day!

[twangquack]

You've done a standard continuity test between lines for the Vero right?
Micro splashes of solder can easily mess up your day!

Vero/stripboard is wonderful, but solder bridges can be problem, especially when using excess solder and positioning the stripboard --while soldering -- in a manner that can help create those bridges. Those "3rd and 4th hands" type of soldering aids (the adjustable alligator-clip claw thingies on a stand) can help ... or even placing one end of the board slightly higher so that solder will tend run down the strip as opposed to bridging across to an adjacent strip -- these things will help. But the best thing is simply good soldering practices that include using just enough solder to do the job.

Taking a very sharp-edged needle file and carefully scoring along the solder-masked area between strips can also be good, but be careful about creating burrs that can be their own type of bridge. Brushing in the direction of the strips with a stiff-bristled toothbrush after a quick "scoosh" between the strips with a needle file (after you've done all the soldering for two adjacent strips) is also great. A 10X jeweler's loupe for examination of the stripboard, after the soldering, can be not only a good way to detect bridging but also a way to micro-examine your soldering skills -- has the solder flowed completely around a component's lead wire? (This can be more of a problem when connecting the board to pots and such ... off-board wiring with 24 awg wire as opposed to soldering a cap or resistor). Is it a good connection without blobbing over to the next strip?

I usually take most or all of these precautions and after many, many stripboard projects have never had any solder bridging problems when testing a new pedal. As Toney said, it takes just a "micro-splash" to create one of those bridges. A 10X loupe can reveal one that might escape normal vision / non-magnified examination.

[svstee]

A 10X loupe can reveal one that might escape normal vision / non-magnified examination.

This.

I never knew how much I needed one of these until I tried one out. Now its become my favorite tool. I use a 5x, though.

[vmazz38]

Im making some progress my concern now is how I have the offboard components wired. Im trying to use the ggg offboard layout with the vero layout and Im not sure everything is compatible. Here is the torchy layout if anyone has the time to compare it with the ggg ts808 offboard components. The first thing I wonder is if I have the LED hooked up right.
Thanks Folks  

[MikeH]

I mean modified in just subing a few parts that others seem to like..compared to stock ts values..Im double checking all the things you listed..I do wonder about the transistors ..generally it calls for 2n3904, im using 2n2222 , I thought theyd be comparable. Thanks for the input.

Did you compare the datasheets to see if the pinout was the same?

[vmazz38]

As could be expected..I found several things which were not right ...I am getting close..right now Im checking all the offboard wiring  and dealing with grounding the input as i still have a little oscillation sometimes. Using an audio probe Im getting some oscillation at pins 3 and 4 of the IC. But at the tone control things sound pretty good. The level and drive dont seem to do anything and the output signal is very distant barely audible. Could these be any useful clues.
Appreciate any comments..Im having fun even though I had wanted it to work right off the bat.
Val

[jefe]

I'm gonna ask a really stupid question - did you cut the traces wherever there's a red & white square in the layout?

(you did say this was your first vero build, so I just thought I'd ask  )