GGG Orange Squeezer Problem

[BenM]

Hey guys,

This is my first post here.  I'm pretty sure I searched correctly and couldn't find anyone with the same readings I'm getting off my OS.  I have read a ton of information on this pedal already in some older threads; there are a number of you with an immense amount of electronics knowledge and I really appreciate you sharing it.

Now for the problem...I just finished building an Orange Squeezer clone from GGG.  The bypass works fine and the LED works too.  When the switch is engaged, there is no sound.  The bias trim is definitely scratchy at the mid-lower end of it's range.  The scratch doesn't seem to be present once the dial is over half way.  It looks like the trim pot is off the board a slight bit on the "0" side of the range (not too far but it's visibly not mounted perfectly flush with the board like it should be)...but before I took it apart and re-soldered, I wanted to see if there's something else I may be missing.

I used a signal tester I built and when connected to the output jack, the volume jack changes the signal but the trim pot doesn't do anything.  When I put the signal probe on the input, I got nothing coming out.

Here are the various voltage reading I've taken off the transistors and IC.  I took readings with the trim pot at full, half, and off.  I guess I'll post the full on numbers for now.

9V power supply - 8.99V

Q1
Gate - 2.74V
Source - 3.38V
Drain - 8.99V (this doesn't change regardless of trim pot position)

Q2
Gate - .127V
Source - 2.734V
Drain - 1.9V (the longer I left the meter on the connection, the lower it would go...down to 1.6 or so)

IC
1 - 8.45V
2 - 8.45V
3 - 0V
4 - 0V
5 - 8.99V
6 - 4.9V
7 - 4.9V
8 - 4.8V

I can tell that pins 5 & 8 don't match what the GGG specs say.  I also know that the transistor voltages don't seem to all be correct.  What I don't know is whether there's something going on with one of the JFETs or if a bad solder joint in the trim pot could be causing all of this.

I have checked all of the component placement and orientation and everything is correct.

General Instructions - page 3 has correct voltages
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_osq_instruct.pdf?phpMyAdmin=4a28f86a515b7883e7bc35a68d4e7b6d

Schematic
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_osq_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=4a28f86a515b7883e7bc35a68d4e7b6d

Parts Layout and Wiring
https://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_osq_lo_trim.pdf?phpMyAdmin=4a28f86a515b7883e7bc35a68d4e7b6d
Thanks a ton for the help.  It seems like this place could get very addictive!

Ben

[solderman]

When I end up in this situation I usually "probe" the circuit that is done by soldering a cap, say 220nF to a lead of a cable that has a normal mono Jack in the other end. Put the jack in your amlefier and ground the other ends ground to the circuit. Then start to touch the signal path with the free leg of the cap or if you prefer a soldered cable to that leg while inserting a signal from for example a guitar. Start at the IN and walk your way true until you find the spot where the signal dissaperes. By this you can narrow down where to search for the problem

//Solderman

[aziltz]

either your IC is in backwards or you've mislabeled the pins.

it goes counterclockwise starting from the top left (near the dot or notch). 1-4, then 5-8, up the right side.

I say this because pin 8 is power (9v) and if your using the right side of the opamp, 5, 6 7 and should all be around 4.5v or the bias voltage.


so either nothings wrong and you just labeled it backwards, or something I don't understand is going on with it.

[BenM]

Thanks guys. 

I definitely labeled the pins wrong (yeah, I'm an idiot). 

I had it as...

1  5
2  6
3  7
4  8

Given that, the IC has all of the correct voltages.

I have a signal tester (this one...http://buildyourownclone.com/signaltesterinstructions.pdf) so I'll try to do some probing around and see what I can find out.

Thanks again for the help guys.